An important note from Santa…
It strikes me, as we approach another Christmas Eve, that we may need a reset of sorts. You all have the best intentions, surely, but I’d like to draw up a few changes to how things have been going the past few years. If I may:
1) Please, for the love of Rudolph, disable your alarm system, just for one night. It ruins the surprise and I’m tired of getting tazed.
2) Don’t leave carrots for the reindeer. They need to get to millions of houses in one night, if anything leave Red Bull and Adderall.
3) I live with someone who, like, does nothing but bake stuff. Don’t leave cookies out for me, I can’t even look at those things anymore (not to mention that half of them got bite marks out of ‘em. Way to pull your weight, Dad). You know what Santa wants?
Barolo. Elegant, layered, satisfying, classic Barolo. I love it and I never get any. Leave a glass of Barolo out for me and your presents will get awesome, and don’t worry about Santa driving, either. I just hop in the sled and go “Ho Ho Ho” and mention a couple of the names I remember like “Cupid!” or “Donner!” and the reindeer drive themselves, pretty much. Which Barolos do I like? Thought you’d never ask:
Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 2013. Surprisingly rich and deep for the Cannubi cru, and the tannins get along with everything else like a wine twice its age. We’re on Fenocchio No.5 here, son Claudio has taken over from father Giacomo but there’s a line that goes 3 Fenocchios back all the way to 1894, well before most Barolo houses were even established. Smells like a berry/gravel smoothie but deploys like a cardigan; we’re not at the sweet spot yet but we’re way closer than a 2013 has any right to be. Intense and impressive, especially for value. 97 points James Fenocchio Suckling, 17+/20 Jancis Robinson. $87.99 +tax
Brezza Barolo Cannubi 2012. Now this acts more like the Cannubis I’ve come across, perfumed, floral, and just enough seductive red fruit to distract you from the giant Wile E. Coyote hammer it’s holding behind its back. Super-traditional vinification, with long macerations and large, neutral barrel aging. 5 years before fireworks happen, but they will surely happen and Santa will surely do a happy-dance. 94 points Wine Enthusiast, $79.49 +tax
Elio Sandri Barolo Perno Riserva 2010. Don’t look for reviews or ratings on Elio Sandri, in fact don’t look for any web presence at all, Mr. Sandri simply doesn’t care. He only makes two wines near the commune of Perno, a Barolo and a Barolo Riserva, and this is the first taste that we get in western Canada. What an amazing price for a 2010 Riserva, and what an amazing nose: balsamic, truffle, mushroom and red fruits, all rolled into a dense frame that drinks gloriously now. Low key and traditional, but not at all rustic or backwards. Santa thirsty. $83.49 +tax
Remember, Santa wants everyone to drive safe!!
Written by Jordan Carrier, Vintage Room Consultant at Everything Wine – River District.