By chance, I found himself dining at either end of the Italian spectrum these past couple of weeks. It added up to a fascinating and reassuring reminder of what makes Vancouver’s culinary scene so rewarding.
Unless you’ve been under a rock you’ll know that the western extremity of Kingsway is no longer the gritty stretch it once was. As densification takes hold, even the proliferation of pho shops is on the wane as eateries become more diversified.
Enter Osteria Savio Volpe, a remarkable room that’s sprung up just west of Les Faux Bourgeois. The latter is one of the more visionary and daring rooms that signaled something was afoot on the one time (and hence named) road from then provincial capital Royal City.
The first thing that struck me about Savio Volpe (literally, “Tavern of the Smart Fox”) is that it’s already buzzing. In fact, if you don’t arrive by 6 — 6:30 at the latest — well, good luck. The neighbourhood knows about it, as do a whole lot of other people apparently.
Much of Savio Volpe’s early success lies in the depth of the ownership behind it. But what really counts is what defines the ingeniously designed room (a one-time garage with soaring ceiling) and its rustic but detail-driven food.
Sometimes it’s the simplest items that make the best impression. Even if you’re not a kale lover, once you’ve tasted the strikingly simple but utterly addictive finely diced black kale, lemon pepper and Pecorino salad ($13) you’ll be rushing home to dust off that mandolin your sister gave you to try to copy it.
Savio Volpe focusses on ingredients that are seasonal, (mainly) local, definitely shared and often inspired. Don’t miss the beet and citrus salad with almonds and Ricotta ($15). But be sure not to pass up the bagna cauda, which will tempt even the most determined vegetarian, with its array of fingerling potatoes and other fresh veggies, plus home baked bread for dipping in a hot anchovy and garlic “fondue” ($17).
With no shortage of choices for carnivores, there’s a wood fired heritage pork chop, nicely singed, along with a wealth of spit-roasted offerings that change by the day. The all Italian wine list is smartly chosen (along with local craft beers and savvy cocktails). Service is well informed and genuinely friendly, and the room feels modern but comfortable as if it’s been there forever — along with one of the best retro playlists in town. Details at saviovolpe.com.
Timeless classic
One room that really has been around forever (well, for nearly 40 years) is La Piazza Dario Ristorante Italiano at The Italian Cultural Centre.
Dario’s is one of those timeless classics, which has been subtly updated without disturbing its white linen, fine dining feel that harkens back to another era. It’s a loving, comforting dash of Italian retro, complete with Florentine sculptures and corny cartoons on the way to the washroom. And it all feels — and tastes — just fine.
Service is correct, fleetingly formal but friendly, in a familiar way that can only come with the territory and years of serving generations of regulars.
A lingering lunch (one of the city’s best kept secrets, with four good value set menus if you wish) starts with a shared plate of antipasti or superb minestrone. The extensive a la carte is packed with mainstays, from cannelloni ala Romana to linguine di mare, scaloppine al marsala, and many more. And, yes, there are desserts in spades, from tiramisu to zabaglione — and grappa, of course.
Details at lapiazzadario.com.
Belly’s Budget Best
Tollo Colle Secco Rubino Montepulciano 2011/12
Pretty garnet in the glass, with bright red berries and anise on the nose, medium bodied with good structure, acidity and easy tannins. Perfect for pasta. 90 pts. $16-$18.
