Ask people about their “go-to” special occasion restaurants and invariably one of the names that pops up is Le Crocodile. Last week, chef-owner Michel Jacob staged a series of dinners to mark his remarkable restaurant’s 30th anniversary. True to form, this unassuming star of Vancouver’s culinary scene shifted the spotlight away from himself by inviting chefs David Hawksworth (Hawksworth), Ned Bell (Vancouver Four Seasons, Yew) and Rob Feenie (Cactus Club) to cook with him, each for one night.
It’s fair to say all three have had a profound impact on the city, a dynamic trio of chefs that drive our tastes and also our dining philosophies — particularly sustainability — on several levels.
All three were protégés at one time, which speaks volumes of Jacob’s contribution. As it happened, Feenie was just about ready to throw in the towel and head for a career as a firefighter when Jacob suggested he come by for lunch. Feenie signed on and Jacob became his mentor.
“Every accolade I’ve ever had is because of you,” said Feenie after preparing a superb menu that included his Lumière classic butternut squash and mascarpone ravioli with black truffle butter — a showstopper, along with roasted sea bass and lobster tempura, and a duo of prime rub and tenderloin with celery root purée and black truffle port wine jus.
“The memories you have created for this city are quite remarkable,” Feenie told Jacob. “The passion is what makes great restaurants brilliant.”
From bike to kitchen
Meanwhile, over at Yew, Bell is celebrating this summer’s ride across Canada with a special Chefs for Oceans menu, through Dec. 1. Bell (who’s lobbying Ottawa to proclaim March 18 National Sustainable Seafood Day) offers some intriguing and delicious pan Canadian tastes and ingredients, from fried pickerel with wild rice and pork belly, to Diefenbaker lake trout with Haskap Berries to “Surf n’ Turf” of Osoyoos Ranch Wagyu beside B.C. spot prawns.
Last supper
Speaking of lasting legacies, last week saw the closing of Raincity Grill, only a couple of months after C’s demise, both owned by Harry Kambolis. It’s important to put into perspective the impact that these restaurants had on Vancouver’s (and Canada’s) food scene, from the founding of Ocean Wise with Vancouver Aquarium to supporting local sourcing, promoting the 100 Mile Diet, unswervingly belief in B.C. wine well before everyone jumped on the bandwagon and driving the continent’s most ambitious wines by the glass program. We suffer a loss when such pioneering, iconic rooms disappear.
Whole lotta lunch
With the holiday season around the corner, there’s no better time to head out for a celebratory lunch. Here’s three that fit the bill:
• L’Abattoir (217 Carrall St., 604-568-1701) sports an impressive $22 ( two-course) or $29 (three- course) prix fixe. Go for the pine mushroom risotto or beef Bourguignon or splurge on the à la carte beef dip.
• Chambar (568 Beatty St., 604-879-7119). The new digs impress, as do the lunch offerings. Standouts range from duck confit to poulet à l’orange and miso tuna — all à la carte.
• Steel Toad (97 East Second Ave., 604-709-8623). The impressively restored, capacious Opsal Steel Building is home to the city’s newest craft brewery and dining hall. Creative pizza, sandwiches, shepherds, rilettes, steak frites and more, plus fresh brews.
Belly’s Budget Best
Grilos 2011
Good value, true Portuguese (Touriga Naçional, Tinta Roriz and Jaen). Medium-bodied red with appealing dark plum and cherry notes, approachable tannins and a touch of oak. The name means “crickets,” which are featured on the label! BCLS $14.99, 90 pts.
