I’m heartened by rumblings in slumbering Chinatown, which, eclipsed by Richmond’s glitz and threatened by encircling condos, many have prematurely written off.
No more potent sign of the neighbourhood’s re-awakening exists than Sai Woo, a smart, softly modern Pender Street emporium that balances contemporary fare with a side of subtle nostalgia.
Sai Woo is the brainchild of forward thinking restaurateur Salli Pateman — who you may remember (when Yaletown was still in diapers) was obliged to rename her Yaletown De Niro’s Supper Club, after the the actor threatened to sue.
Just as De Niro’s — later Section (3) — was the harbinger of things to come, so too is her new venture, which this week was already playing to a full house.
The name is an unabashed and inspired nod to the original Sai Woo Chop Suey, located here in the ’20s. It serves as the perfect muse for this expansive space, which has been transformed by Domain Creative. While the front of house — with its long bar, cozy booths, gorgeous “button” lights, ironwood trees, tiled floors and high ceiling — is beautiful, I doubt there’s a chef in town who wouldn’t be jealous of chef Douglas Chang’s kitchen. Capacious and flooded with daylight during prep hours, at night its bustling, open activity becomes the end focal point of the establishment.
Chang (who cooked previously at Bambuddah and West) seeks out and achieves a balance between influences of east, west and elsewhere. His dishes are inventive without being precocious — and occasionally dazzle. Chang’s background spans Canadian, Chinese and Jamaican heritages, all influences comfortably brought into play.
“Cheek to cheek” combines morsels of pork jowl with pea angolotti with classic Chinese Jinhua ham broth, and herb and fennel salad, that adds up to one tasty salute to spring ($19).
More showstoppers range from baked sablefish with lotus root, Chinese radish and Kombu broth ($25), and vegetarian “sausage,” with crispy tofu and charred eggplant, bumped up with chili oil ($9).
In a city too long under siege from “also ran” pork belly plates, Chang’s tender offering comes glazed with fermented red tofu, with a delicious taro purée ($19). It alone is worth a visit. Oh, that and the gooey and addictive “Cola wings”— Coca-Cola chicken wings on shredded lettuce ($13).
There’s plenty more on this menu, which, while broad in scope, contains nothing superfluous. Whether you fancy a night at the bar (under Justin Anello) for a few shared plates (try salt cod fritters and Meyer lemon cream) or a full blown romp including a platter of Chinatown Jerk, there is something for everyone. Same goes for Anello’s bar list, which sports a “Sai Woo Sour” and a “Beijing Sling,” with green apple and melon liqueur. Not to mention a tall and refreshing 05 Kombucha, from the town’s only Kombucha tap.
Sai Woo, 160 East Pender St., 604-586-1117. Open Monday to Sunday, 5 p.m. to 12 a.m.
Eat it
EAT Vancouver Food + Cooking Festival (B.C. Place, May 1 to 3) is now a three-day show that closes out what has become Canada’s largest foodie gathering of its kind. Events take place throughout the week of April 26 across Vancouver, with appearances by several luminaries at top restaurants, while EAT itself features the likes of Susur Lee, Vikram Vij, Mark McEwan, Anna Olson, Rob Feenie, Ned Bell, Angus An, Trevor Bird and others. Tickets can be purchased at the door or at eat-vancouver.com.
Belly’s Budget Best
• Gunderloch Fritz’s Riesling 2013
This juicy, peachy-citrus Riesling with nice fruit-acid balance, will get you in the mood for spring just by looking at the label. Think grilled pork chops and apple sauce. BCLS, Everything Wine $14.69 (before taxes) through May 2. 90 pts.
More at hiredbelly.com.
