Making a go of an upstairs room can be challenging at the best of times, so it’s reassuring to see that Gurkha Kitchen in the West End is flourishing — so much so that the owners have opened a second location in Kitsilano.
Yak & Yeti Bistro (2958 West Fourth Ave., 604-428-4422) is the funky, cozy, friendly and laid-back new sibling, housed in the former Flying Tiger location. A recent evening found us perusing an intriguing menu over pints of local brews. In contrast to the original, the newcomer is more edgy and offers fusion-driven fare that, while still faithfully Nepalese, has a more updated feel and predominantly locally sourced both on the plate and in the glass.
You can drop in for small plates and a drink — and take in some excellent funky tunes — or indulge in a full meal deal. Either way, you won’t leave disappointed. If you’re not familiar with this style of cuisine, it pays to take the time to listen while the accommodating staff explain.
Spicing is deep and broad rather than sharp and piercing, emphasizing a purity of flavours. There’s also no shortage of vegetarian options, including a few that will seduce even the most determined of carnivores. They include the lightly spiced Aalu Achaar ($8), which raises the humble potato to new and surprising heights.
Among the wide range of small plates, the pulled local duck meat, fried with just the right amount of ginger proved to be a favourite ($9). Then again, so was the Yak Momo — a kind of Himalayan style dumpling, served with citrus and tomato based sauces ($12), as well as the tender, char-grilled and lamb kebab with fried potatoes ($10).
We found our small plates lineup surprisingly filling but did make a brief detour to the mains to check out the free-run chicken sizzler, which arrived as promised in a piping hot cast-iron platter. The meat was perfectly cooked on the outside, moist and tender inside and well-spiced, served with crunchy mixed vegetables such as broccoli and cauliflower, with noodles ($15). A formidable and irresistible serving of poached spiced pears with ice cream and crunchy caramel proved to be the perfect close ($14).
I also liked the emphasis on well-priced, decent local beers (such as Driftwood Fat Tug IPA and Russell Blood Alley Bitter) and smartly sourced B.C. wines, including Intrigue Riesling and Gray Monk Pinot Gris.
Aside from a chance to further celebrate a unique style of cuisine, the intent is to also offer a go-to neighbourhood haunt that balances a good atmosphere with a serious kitchen. If it were my ‘hood, I’d be there a couple of times a week.
Where the wild things are
Speaking of local flavours, the seasoned chef and celebrated mycologist Bill Jones has penned The Deerholme Foraging Book, which explores the Pacific Northwest’s fields, forests and beyond, with 110 unique recipes, all based on wild foods, from edible plants to seaweeds (“sea vegetables”), shellfish and more. A must for any cook with a bent for a taste of outdoor adventure and an appetite for foraging. (Heritage Group, $29.95.)
G&T Fridays
With a year under its belt, Long Table Distillery (1451 Hornby St., 604-266-0177) is spreading its cocktail lounge wings. Drop by for a sip at TGIG&T every Friday from 4 p.m. Or get down quicker if you want to grab a bottle (and you will) of Marc du Soleil. The “co-pro” between Le Clos du Soleil and Vancouver’s Long Table Distillery, yields a clean, subtly caramel and smooth tasting spirit made from Clos de Soleil Merlot
Belly’s Budget Best
• Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2012
Here’s an easy sipping Riesling to welcome spring. It’s off-dry and lusciously fruit-forward with stone fruit, a touch of mineral and even a hint of petrol. The wine would go well with a Waldorf salad with a touch of spice or Pad Thai. BCLS Specialty, $15.99. 89 pts.
