It’s been three years since The Acorn opened its doors on Main Street, touting “ambitious” vegetarian and vegan fare alongside craft cocktails and local beers and wines. It was a novel concept for Vancouver at the time. With less than a handful of vegetarian/vegan eateries in the city that rose above the level of café, the prospect of “dining out” – with cocktails, to boot – made for a very successful opening for this tiny room. But, buzz can’t account for its continuing popularity and still routinely-long line-ups.
When co-owners Shira Blustein and chef Brian Skinner first opened the restaurant in 2012, the goal wasn’t to create “faux” meats and dishes. No cashew “cheese,” no tofurkey. Vegetables, grains and even dairy were celebrated for what they were, and the vegan, gluten-free and raw options followed the same plan. Skinner moved on in 2014 to pursue his own projects, but the kitchen, now under head chef Rob Clarke, is sticking to the original ethos and turning out beautiful food that showcases a genuine love of vegetables and what you can do with them.
Beer-battered halloumi with potato-zucchini pancake and smashed peas is a dish that’s been on the menu since day one, and it’s delicious. New dishes like chestnut and ricotta gnudi get served up with parsnip puree and sunchoke chips. Apple upside-down cake is drizzled with caramelized goat cheese sauce for a sweet and earthy combo that works perfectly. And, while some of the plates won’t win any awards for aesthetics, even the most carnivorous of diners won’t leave hungry, as both the size and portions give satisfactory richness.
The food is matched by the excellent bar and wine program. Signature cocktails like the Strawberry Fields Forever, with Bulleit bourbon, Amontillado sherry, housemade strawberry shrub and an absinthe rinse, are food-friendly and innovative, and wine list smart and well-priced. The only thing missing here, really, is more seating for hungry diners.
