La Grotta Del Formaggio for the win! Are you surprised? Neither am I. I mean have you tried their sandwiches? It’s a simple concept and it works, hence the constant line-up during peak hours.
La Grotta Del Formaggio is just one of the many mom and pop shops on Commercial Drive. However it’s not just any “mom and pop” because without it, Commercial Drive would not be complete. An institution in the neighbourhood, it has defined what hard work and family bonds can mean to a business successful.
Husband and wife Fortunato and Anna Bruzzese started the business in 1977 and still continue their hands-on approach as a family-run business specializing in Italian goods. Their daughter, Sandra Raines, manages the administrative side of the business as well as the social media and catering, while her brother Domenico heads the wholesale division, sourcing and importing products.
When I say “hands on” I’m not exaggerating either. Fortunato rarely takes a day off and is at the deli seven days a week. He divides his time between paperwork and making sandwiches and there’s no job too small or big.
I’ve been lucky to get to know the humble family after traveling with Domenico and La Grotta’s corporate chef, Alex Tung, to Abruzzo, Italy last year. Tung represented Canada in the Rustichella d’Abruzzo Primograno Pasta Competition and took home Best Pasta Dish as well as Best Overall – the only two titles to be won. Considered an honorary “Italian”, Tung is part of the Bruzzese family and they make their customers feel the same way. Their store is their glorified pantry and it’s admirable how they have grown as an independent company.
Although they are known for Italian goods, they have also increased their focus on locally-made BC products. They sell some BC cheeses exclusively to local retailers, but also have a burrata and stracciatella produced specifically for their shop available at the deli. Other specialty products I’m a fan of their bottarga, Rustichella PrimoGrano pasta, salt cod, charcuterie, and premium olive oils.
Next time in the store, introduced yourself to Fortunato. He is a wealth of information and stories – a passionate and true Italian who welcomes anyone as if they were family. If you ask nicely, he might have some special cheeses ageing in his cheese cave that will fit your palate and special occasion.
