It seems that David Hawksworth can do no wrong in this city. The much-lauded chef has won numerous accolades for his eponymous restaurant at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia and now seems set to repeat the experience at his newly-opened Nightingale (winner of both our Best New Restaurant and Best Interior Design awards).
This vegetable-forward and considerably more relaxed room was designed by the same mind that put together Hawksworth, Alessandro Munge – albeit with a more streamlined approach. No heavy draperies or fabric walls, although there are some lovely chandeliers. The first impression is one of airiness, space and a casual ambiance that invites you to sit at the bar and swap life stories with the first comer. “It's more vibrant at Nightingale,” says Hawksworth. “It can turn into a bit of a party in there, which I love.”
And while the near-constant buzz in the street-level lobby, with its soaring club-style bar and light-wood surround, might make you think this is the heart of the operation, upstairs is where the theatre actually takes place. The light wood continues up the stairs to the main dining area, at the back of which is the open kitchen and the massive pizza oven. It’s an eminently adult room, but one that easily welcomes families. The contrast between the heritage accents, like the patterned white subway tile, and the more modern touches (don’t miss the papier mâché taxidermy), are what keep the space fun and the audio hum high.
Pizza is one of the six main sections on the menu, and these are not to be missed, thanks to restaurant chef Phil Scarfone and pizzaiolo Guiseppe Cortinovis. The dough here isn’t verace pizza napoletana, but it’s still remarkably thin (instead of the typical Type 00, they use the slightly coarser Type 1 flour), with a slight chew and a dense flavor. Braised beef and gorgonzola plays nicely with red Russian kale, while a roasted mushroom, potato and confit garlic version is lightly topped with fontina.
While there is red meat, seafood and chicken on the menu, one section is devoted entirely to vegetables, and it’s a loving ode to the flavours that live around the Mediterranean. Marinated beets sit over a sumac-infused labneh cheese. Roasted mushrooms are drizzled in brown butter, pecorino and hazelnuts. Braised greens get a lick of heat from some Calabrian chilies.
Unlike Hawksworth, the focus here isn’t on wine (although there is a small list of bottles). Here, it’s all about the cocktails and cans, including a cold-brewed coffee and gin cocktail that’s kept on tap. The house martini is redolent of the overall atmosphere. London Dry gin is mixed with some housemade chamomile and citrus vermouth for a refreshing and surprisingly complex sipper that pairs beautifully with the octopus.
It’s a modern Canadian ethos that uses Mediterranean flavours to pack some serious punch. Even the desserts get in on the action, like the red wine-braised prunes with mascarpone and toasted pistachio. “It’s really about serving the every-day food I like to eat on a regular basis,” laughs Hawksworth.
