Bâtard Boulangerie
3958 Fraser St. | 604-506-3958 | BatardBakery.com
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 8am-6pm.
The name might be a bit off-putting, but calling your business a “bastard” isn’t exactly new in France. It’s the name of one of Drouhin’s most highly-rated Grand Crus, and one of the most famous white wines in the Côte de Beaune. Such a pedigree, if only by name, might sound a bit chi-chi, but this new bakery on Fraser Street is anything but.
Bâtard offers both retail and café service. One wall is plastered with garage sale oils, all harmoniously playing together, the bathroom walls are covered with portraits of famous “bastards” like David Bowie, and the furniture is old country kitchen kitsch. In other words, it’s a fun, slightly cheeky space that balanced the line between “reclaimed” and “grungy” with panache. The retail side of the space offers spreads, salads, oils, San Marzano tomatoes and dried pasta, chocolates and housemade beverages like old-fashioned lemonade and chilled ginger soda.
Like many boulangeries in Paris, Bâtard also bakes monstrous loaves of their signature levain, which you can buy in a more reasonable size for $6. The kilo rounds hover around $25-$30, and are perfect for large groups. The levain is lovely, with a slightly crispy crust that isn’t too crumbly, and a beautifully-textured interior that stands up well to hearty sandwiches and the toast bar.
Yes, there’s a toast bar (one of the first in Vancouver). Four dollars or thereabouts gets you two thick slices of toast with your choice of smoked wild salmon or cognac liver pâté, housemade jams, nut butters or olive tapenade. You can even take it home for morning treats.
Speaking of treats, these are less rustic than the breads, but no less delicious. Salted chocolate rye cookies are rich, fudgy and perfectly delightful. A lemon tart has a nice custard that’s almost a gelée, but it’s the miniature St. Honoré that blows me away. The palm-sized cream puff is topped with tiny, caramel-glazed profiteroles and fresh raspberries. It’s so heavenly my eyes close while chewing.
For something heartier, turn to one of the sandwiches (around $9 each). While the solid shrimp salad is a bit messy to eat with your hands – it’s served open face with thick tomato slices – it’s the truly outstanding beef dip that is worth returning for. The meat is sliced just thin enough to retain its juices and allow for an easy chew, and the accompanying jus is practically a gravy. Savoury and soul-satisfying, it will hopefully be a constant on the menu.
Like the many celebrities hanging on the bathroom walls, this bastard has turned out good.
All ratings out of five stars:
Food: ★★★
Service: ★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★
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