It felt different the moment we walked in. Most dim sum restaurants in the city seem to favour the beige-themed blandness of an empty banquet hall.
Here, the room was a fascinating cross between an upscale karaoke bar and a Korean bbq joint that plays girl pop videos on large screens. No girl pop here, thank God, but there is a massive TV screen that cycles photos of dishes from the menu. The walls are shiny white, there’s a sparkly purple light tube running from floor to ceiling, and the many large crystal chandeliers are prominently placed. It’s not exactly what comes to mind when I think of fine-dining, but character it has a-plenty.
That slightly off-beat concept carries over into the food. Chef Tony He, owner of this eponymous restaurant, has opened high-end Cantonese restaurants on both sides of the Pacific, including Sea Harbour in Richmond. And, while Chef Tony’s is open for dinner as well, it’s the dim sum you want to come for.
Classic dishes like har gow (shrimp dumplings) are wrapped in rice paper so fine, they are translucent, almost transparent. Fish is fresh and the meats are well-sourced. Prices are a tad higher than your average dim sum, with most dishes running $4-$5.75, while specialty dishes hover around $6.95-$7.75.
It’s Chef Tony’s use of unconventional ingredients and pairings that sets the food here apart. Classic siu mai (pork-and-prawn dumplings) are infused with shavings of black truffle. Meat “sticks” are covered in sliced almonds, and shrimp spring rolls are brightened with nori and pineapple. Dishes that seem designed to appeal to Western tastes were less successful, like the deep-fried crab stick and dried scallop potato paste balls. These were essentially potato croquettes with not enough seafood. Deep-fried radish cake could also use some work. Not enough crispness on the outside, and a gummy interior left me unimpressed.
If you’re willing to step a little outside your comfort zone, however, deliciousness awaits. Chicken feet in soy sauce are plump and juicy, aromatic and rich. Bitter gourd and chicken shreds wrapped in rice noodles are excellent, as are the mixed mushroom pastry. The pastry itself is beautifully layered, the mushrooms are savoury, and the yin-yang design on top is just a pretty bonus. Do not miss the egg-white custard tarts for a sweet finish.
The service also deserves some kudos. While some servers seem unfamiliar with certain dishes’ descriptions in English (here’s where a Cantonese-speaking friend could come in handy), they are prompt, polite and attentive. Empty dishes are cleared quickly, clean plates appear regularly, and there are even some smiles.
Be warned: The parking lot can be nightmarish, so early arrival is recommended. But, it’s worth a few minutes of aggravation to enjoy the siu mai, chicken feet, et al. I’ll brave it.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★1/2
Service: ★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★1/2
Open for dinner nightly, 5pm-10pm; dim sum weekdays 10:30am-3pm and weekends/holidays 10am-3pm.
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
