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CITY CELLAR: John Clerides' expansion of passion

Ask anyone in the local wine trade about John Clerides, the owner of Davie Streets Marquis Wine Cellars for the last 27 years, and I guarantee the first thing theyll do is give you a smirk and a light chuckle. Dont get me wrong; the guys no joke.
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Ask anyone in the local wine trade about John Clerides, the owner of Davie Streets Marquis Wine Cellars for the last 27 years, and I guarantee the first thing theyll do is give you a smirk and a light chuckle. Dont get me wrong; the guys no joke. In fact, hes one of the most dogged, brilliant wine minds in the province; always travelling, digging and sourcing new, amazing wines to bring to our shores.

What that initial reaction will be a reflection of, is that John has always been one of the most plainspoken guys we know, and for years has been a thorn in the side of the pols and bureaucrats responsible for liquor laws and policy that have had all of us tossing out words like archaic and draconian ad nauseum for decades.

Whether hammering away via Twitter, speaking on panels or, really, talking to anyone who will listen, its because of John (and people like him) tirelessly beating the drum that were finally starting to see long overdue change in the local liquor policy realm.

I dropped by Marquis to chat with John the other day so I could get a personal tour of his recently-expanded store, now boasting 3,000 square feet, a 3,000-bottle temperature-controlled cellar, and a 16-bottle wine-dispensing machine offering customers the chance to sample the latest staff picks. Hes looking toward teaming up with Benton Brothers Fine Cheese to offer nibbles on Fridays and Saturdays so folks can really take those wine samples for a spin.

While wines are organized by country, there are also sections devoted to style (crisp whites, rich reds, etc.) and even by random subjects like date night or particular food pairings.

The updated store is now even more of a genuine, fleshed-out example of Johns passions. Not just well-sourced wines that offer great value and a story behind each label, but a place that celebrates the culture of wine on many dynamic, interactive levels. Do swing by and dive into the experience.

I asked John to share a couple recent favourites that you should look for and, as always, he didnt disappoint.

Viña Gormaz 2012 Verdejo | Rueda, Spain | $18 |

Marquis Wine Cellars

Oh man, this is the epitome of sunshine in a glass! A cavalcade of grapefruit, lime, pomelo and peaches with a good handful of rocks thrown in for good measure. When I asked John what he liked about this particular bottle, he waxed on about its rich, oily texture, how its a perfect match for seafood and sushi and that its downright refreshing.

Bodegas Carchelo 2011 C | Jumilla, Spain | $18.90 |

Marquis Wine Cellars

I think Ive found my go-to wine for the winter! This dark and brooding trinity of Monastrell, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon exudes warmth and character, folding layer upon layer of cocoa, espresso, currants, thyme, violets and basil. The tannins are wonderfully polished and integrated. Its the kind of wine where youll notice a little extra something wonderful each time you go back to the glass. John notes that its a harmonious blend with a good delineation of flavours, each grape variety offering a key part of the puzzle.

Marquis Wine Cellars is located at 1034 Davie in Vancouver and at Marquis-Wines.com

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