From a strictly gustatory perspective, Easter was always my preferred holiday growing up. I can assure you, it had nothing to do with the chocolate. The Morris family tradition was turkey at Christmas and ham on Easter. My allegiance was clear.
In that regard, my tastes haven’t changed. I’m still a huge fan of baked ham and endorse it at all large festive feasts with family and friends. Now I am all grown up, the added bonus is that I get to drink with it as well.
Between red, white or rosé, ham picks no particular favourites and can find a partner in all hues. All this sweet and salty beast asks for is a wine that is friendly and easy going, like the dining companions you’ll hopefully have.
In terms of reds, this means fruity wines like a good quality Beaujolais or new world Pinot Noir. If you want something with a bit more body, a Grenache-based wine such as Côtes-du-Rhône or a plump Merlot will do the trick. I am also willing to gamble on Lambrusco for something a little different.
When it comes to whites, I’m a sucker for Riesling with any iteration of pork, especially if it has a smoky element. Perhaps it’s Riesling’s flinty, mineral nature that works so well. I am also totally for one with a little bit of residual sugar next to sweet juicy ham. A totally opposite approach is to go with a fuller (though not oaky) Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc.
The minutiae of the recipe may help in refining the choice further. Ham is a laudable canvas for all sorts of glazes, herbs, spices and fruit-based sides. The accent you choose will provide a bridge between what’s on you plate and what’s in your glass.
Happy Easter Ham!
2013 Selbach-Oster, Zeltinger Himmelreich, Riesling Kabinett • Mosel, Germany • $29.49, BC Liquor Stores
Light and zingy to counter the rich meal, though not lacking in personality. Stone, green apple, lime zest and tarragon burst from this beautifully balanced, medium-dry Riesling. Especially tasty with a peach or mustard glaze.
2014 Badenhorst, Secateur’s Chenin Blanc • Swartland WO, South Africa • $31-33, private wine stores
Leesy and rich, but still vibrant with notes of ripe pear, honey and pineapple pith. As a throw back to my youth, I recommend serving some pineapple on the side. Fresh, not canned please.
2013 Pierre-Henri Morel • Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Signargues AOC, France • $20.49, BC Liquor Stores
A heady combination of black raspberry, violet, lavender and dried herbs. Make sure you throw some rosemary or thyme into your seasoning mix. And if lamb is on the menu instead of ham, this would still be absolutely appropriate.
2012 Lapostolle, Cuvée Alexandre Merlot • Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile • $22.97, BC Liquor Stores
A fabulous and refined Merlot, the Cuvée Alexandre is rich and soft with flattering flavours of vanilla, plums, nutmeg, black pepper and a little bit of cocoa. Begs for the five-spice treatment.
2014 Evesham Wood, Pinot Noir • Willamette Valley, Oregon • $40, Marquis Wine Cellars
Lovely Pinot! Succulent cherries, forest floor and sweet baking spice meet a silky smooth texture. Pair with a classic but judiciously clove-studded ham.
Prices are exclusive of taxes.
