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Five surprising wines from BC

I feel like the BC wine industry and I are growing up together. Both of us are exploring everything possible but, ideally, we’re honing in on our strengths.
Wine

I feel like the BC wine industry and I are growing up together. Both of us are exploring everything possible but, ideally, we’re honing in on our strengths. For BC, I consider these strengths to be Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, but that doesn’t mean I won’t consider anything else.

I love tasty surprises, and here are five BC wines that have recently turned my head.

2013 Stag’s Hollow, ‘Renaissance’ Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, BC VQA $25 winery direct

I’m often disappointed by BC Sauvignon Blanc. Too many lack concentration and balance. Dwight Sick, winemaker at Stag’s Hollow puts this down to overcropping. This isn’t the case at Stag’s Hollow though, and their latest Renaissance release really grabbed my attention. Grassiness and grapefruit meets guava on the nose with lime and pear on palate. Enjoy with a mild yellow Thai fish curry. If there were more examples of BC Sauvignon Blanc like this, I’d be all over it.

2012 Le Vieux Pin, ‘Ava’ Okanagan Valley, BC VQA $35-38 winery direct and private wine stores

Late-ripening Viognier, Rousanne, and Marsanne grapes aren’t the easiest in BC’s short growing season, but the sun-soaked South Okanagan is doing them justice – at least at Le Vieux Pin. The winemaking team truly allows the wine to express the vintage, adjusting the percentages of grapes and oak treatment in accordance with what Mother Nature gives them. Always curvaceous and floral, some years Ava is slightly more corseted and modest while other years she’s a voluptuous blonde bombshell. 2012 is definitely the latter with rich peach, apricot, and honeysuckle notes. Drink with pork roast.

2013 Orofino, ‘Celentano Vineyard’ Gamay, Similkameen Valley, BC $26-31 private wine stores only

The grapes for this are grown on granite soil, which Gamay simply adores. I call it summertime in a glass. Crunchy and bright with red cherry, raspberry, and floral aromas, it’s oh so chuggable. Serve with a slight chill for maximum refreshment. Here’s to more Gamay in BC, planted on appropriate sites, of course.

2013 Samanatha, ‘Cerequiera Vineyard’ Syrah, Okanagan Valley, BC $24.90 winery direct and private wine stores

Okay, I am defaulting to Syrah here but this project deserves mention. It’s the fourth year that Okanagan Crush Pad works with BCs Sommelier of the Year to craft a limited-edition wine, with proceeds going to the BC Hospitality Foundation. This year, winner Samantha Rahn chose to spotlight Syrah, and I say, 'Bravo!' Pure, pretty Okanagan fruit with cherry blossoms and pepper, it is such a pleasure to drink.

2011 Culmina, ‘Hypothesis’ Okanagan Valley BC VQA $48-58 winery direct and private wine stores

Pioneer Donald Triggs came out of retirement with the goal of locating the best site in the Okanagan to ripen Bordeaux reds, and the result is Culmina. Flagship wine Hypothesis blends Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. These late-ripening grapes aren’t always the most successful in our unique climate, but maybe Triggs has found the sweet spot. Hypothesis is an honest expression of our local terroir with a very savoury edge. Along with chocolate and plum, there’s tons of mint and sage. Assertive dry tannin calls for food. I propose steak with a chimichurri sauce.