"I dont cry over spilt milk, but a fallen scoop of ice cream is enough to ruin my whole day." Terri Guillemets
I agree with Guillemets. Im on one of my favourite topics: ice cream. I can have it any time of day and it is like drinking water (so I keep telling myself. )
Summer is gone, so I may be late bringing up the topic, but luckily it is available all year round even if the flavours are seasonal. Up until recently our artisan ice cream scene was lacking, and although it has improved, there is still room for more.
There are many factors that make a perfect scoop. It starts with the quality of ingredients and continues with the equipment, skill, technique and execution of the ice cream maker.
Its not only the type of milk and cream used, but the fat has to be balanced without leaving a filmy residue. Most premium ice cream has around 14-16 per cent butterfat while an average ice cream has about 10-13 per cent. With simple flavours, the philosophy is usually high-quality ingredients, the fewer the better.
It depends on the flavour, but I usually prefer custard-based ice creams containing egg, which is a French-style ice cream, versus an egg-free ice cream which requires no cooking, called Philadelphia-style ice cream. It is a bit of apples and oranges to compare, but the differences should be noted.
Ideally ice cream should be made in small batches, just enough so it sells out the same day. Proper storage and keeping it covered helps prevent crystallization, but if there is fast enough turnover, crystals wont have time to form or make a significant difference.
Some ice cream connoisseurs would recommend eating ice cream between 5 to 8 F because anything below would numb the taste buds. To optimize flavour, temperature matters.
As for the texture, it should have a bit of a chew without being chewy or gummy, but it also should not be fluffy with too much air which is called overrun. Ice cream is churned and, in the process, air must be incorporated to prevent a rock-solid product. It should have some air, but the final result should not be light as air. It should be well compact, and the scoop shouldnt have ripples and curls like the advertisements show.
Well-made artisan ice cream should be creamy, rich, smooth and consistent in texture, colour and flavour. Rather than telling you what is the best, Ill let you be the judge.
Here are some artisan small-batch ice cream makers churning Vancouvers ice cream scene:
Earnest Ice Cream
It was one of the early ice cream makers to really wake up Vancouvers artisan ice cream scene. After operating an ice cream cart and distributing to local retailers for a year, Ben Ernst and Erica Bernardi opened their scoop shop on August 22. The salted caramel is a favourite.
3992 Fraser | EarnestIceCream.com
Brown Paper Packages
Ashley Watson started selling her artisan ice cream sandwiches at local farmers markets summer this year. The ice cream is home made, but the ice cream sandwich is her product. Flavours include Cranberry Billy, a goat cheese and cranberry swirl ice cream with an orange oatmeal cookie; and Tropical Thunder, coconut, rum and caramelized pineapple ice cream with a coconut and oatmeal cookie. Available at the Farmers Market, events, or for delivery.
Sunday Morning Ice Cream
Genevieve Mateyko charges a monthly $40 subscription which includes one delivery within Vancouver, two full pints of her original ice cream flavour of the month, and one sauce-y side or topping. This month was Breakfast of Champions which is an ice cream with a boozy bourbon base mixed with a salted, sweetened cornflake crunch. Available at events, the Chinatown Night Market, or for delivery.
Secret Location Ice Cream
For a sit-down restaurant, pastry chef Kira Desmond offers a selection of house-made ice cream and sorbet for $10. Although this is an option at many restaurants, Kiras ice creams stand out even though its not their specialty. Flavours have included house-made peanut butter and candy cap mushroom.
1 Water | SecretLocation.ca
Find Mijune at the FREE Cedarlane Culinary Cooking Sous-Vide workshop at Dirty Apron from 11am to 12:30 pm on Sept.8, and later on at Feast of Fields at Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery. Kickoff with Canadas Culinary Teams! is Sept. 1 at Edgewater Lounge at BC Place Stadium, and Sept. 15 marks the 10th annual Passions culinary event benefiting the Dr. Peter Aids Foundation at the Dr. Peter Centre. Find out more about Mijune at FollowMeFoodie.com or follow her on Twitter @followmefoodie.
