I've lost count how many times I have flown through Frankfurt airport to or from some other country. And yet, until last week, I'd never made it beyond the city let alone into Germany's beautiful vineyards. For someone who professes a great love of German Riesling, this is bordering on disrespect.
So, I finally made amends and walked amongst the vines that have been responsible for slaking my thirst and fuelling my passion for years. Not only did it serve to amplify my appreciation, it also deepened my distress that these wines aren't more popular. Fresh off the plane, I didn't have time to look at the most recent stats on German wine in British Columbia. However, the last time I checked, it wasn't even in the top 10 and the category was in decline.
To anyone who has turned their back on, or simply never tried, German Riesling, these wines offer drinkability, ageability, diversity, complexity and huge refreshment value. They possess the intensity to stand up to Asian fare, the bracing acidity to cut through the richest of dishes and the finesse to merit a place beside the most refined cuisine. A glass of German Riesling is like drinking from a cool meadow stream, standing in a summer rain or biting into the first apple of autumn.
I was won over by the German's cheeky sense of humour, inspired by the dynamic young generation who is breathing fresh life into the industry and stuffed full of Spargel (white asparagus).
Timing is everything. As it happens, BC Liquor Stores are currently running a promotion on German wine. Head to the Broadway & Lillooet or Broadway & Maple store on April 21 or April 22 between 3 and 7pm to sample a trio. If you want to dive in with both feet, there are still tickets ($125) left for a four-course dinner with pairings at YEW seafood + bar at the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver on Thursday, April 27.
Or just trust me and pick up one of the following:
2015 Karp Schreiber, 'My Karp' Riesling, Mosel
$19.99 BC Liquor Stores
An example of the modern labelling German wineries are adopting: crisp Granny Smith apple with a touch of sugar just to offset that racy, lemony acidity. The modest 10.5% alcohol makes it highly appropriate for spicy dishes.
2015 Selbach-Oster, Zeltinger Himmelreich, Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, Mosel
$29.99 BC Liquor Stores
Here's that summer rain I was referring to. Give the glass a good swirl. Halbtrocken means this is an off-dry wine and that little bit of sweetness makes it so easy to drink on its own as a light-on-its-feet apéritif.
2015 Wittmann, Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen
$30-33 Private stores such as Kitsilano Wine Cellar & Liberty Wine Merchants
Trocken translates as dry, which this is. Precise and linear with lip-smacking intense lime, grapefruit and wet stone. I have enjoyed many bottles with Maenam's excellent Thai cuisine.
2015 Von Winning, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Riesling Trocken, Pfalz
$32.99 BC Liquor Stores
From the evocatively named Paradiesgarten (Paradise Garden) vineyard, which overlooks the pretty town of Deidesheim and the site of one of my idyllic strolls. With blossoms, ginger, juicy peach and guava, it has the weight and backbone to pair with veal schnitzel.
2014 Dr H Thanisch, Bernkasteler Graben, Riesling Spätlese, Mosel
$41.00 BC Liquor Stores
This low alcohol (7.5%), medium, sweet beauty is perhaps a style most associated with German Riesling, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with that. Brilliantly balanced, mineral-driven and a mouthful of slate and citrus zest, it will be even better with age.
