Humans, for the most part, are creatures of habit. We tend to seek comfort in what we know.
For wine, that might mean a crisp, vibrant, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc or a deep purple, rich, full-bodied Malbec. We also usually prefer our whites clear, bright and pale lemon in colour while our reds still and served at room temperature. Anything that falls outside of these parameters may be regarded with suspicion.
Yet on the fringes of the mainstream, a host of idiosyncratic wines beckon. Call them cutting edge, controversial or eclectic. Their appearance, flavours and even texture may be unfamiliar but they can offer a revelatory taste sensation. They could be orange-hued whites, sparkling reds or unfashionable styles like pale, light reds or wines made from disparaged grapes.
They are wines that require a sense of adventure and an open mind. Give them a chance and even a second try. As foreign as these may be at first, it's possible that they will worm their way into your affection, cause you to think and maybe even become part of your regular repertoire.
Being fringe wines, it means you might need to go out of your way to track these down. Happy hunting!
2014 Tinhorn Creek Innovation Series Kerner Orange Wine, B.C.
Winery only
Tinhorn's Innovation Series is an exploration of the periphery. This orange wine is made from the aromatic Kerner grape that sees three days of skin contact. Musky, floral and honeyed, it is dry and slightly tannic with mandarin, citrus tea and vanilla notes. Tiny quantities render it even too limited for Tinhorn's wine club. As such, it is only being poured at the winery's Miradoro Restaurant. In Vancouver, Cibo Trattoria, Uva and Wildebeest have it on their list.
2016 Paltrinieri 'Solco' Lambrusco dell'Emilia IGT, Italy, $28-30
Available at Kitsilano Wine Cellars, Liberty Wine Merchants & Village Liquor Store
Bubbles in a red may be cause for concern but when the winemaker intended to make it sparkling, they can be a bonus. The Lambrusco family of grapes is typically crafted in this fashion, resulting in particularly mouth-cleansing elixirs. Bursting with violets, black raspberry and plum, the Solco is creamy, exuberant and a modest 11.5 per cent ABV. I dare you to try it the next time you have spaghetti Bolognese. Just make sure to chill it first.
2015 Wilhelm Walch St. Magdalener DOC, Italy, $27-28
Available at Firefly & New District
Once upon a time, the prevailing opinion was that the deeper and fuller the red, the better. Thankfully, appreciation for paler, lighter gems like this is slowly growing. St. Magdalener is based on the little known Schiava group of grapes. What the wine lacks in colour and weight, it makes up in sheer chuggability. With super-intriguing strawberry blossom, almond, cherry and redcurrant nuances, it's juicy, bright and the perfect red to pair with salmon or tuna.
2014 Domaine Ramonet Bourgogne Aligoté AOC, France, $61
Available at Marquis Wine Cellars
The fate of Aligoté has nothing in common with its relative Chardonnay. While both hail from Burgundy, the former enjoys none of the latter's fame or fortune. It's true that some examples can be excruciatingly tart and lacking flavour. However, when top Burgundy producer Ramonet gets his hands on it, Aligoté is a refreshingly delicious and complex beauty. Medium-bodied and succulent with intense lemon rind, earth, wet stone and green apple, it will even stand a couple of years in the cellar.
Prices exclusive of taxes
