If the success of Miku and Minami are anything to go by, restaurateur Seigo Nakamura has a more-than-solid grasp on Vancouverites’ appetite for high-end sushi and modern Japanese cuisine. With the opening of Gyoza Bar on the edges of the financial district, Nakamura looks to have scored another winner.
It’s a surprising spot for a “fancy” ramen joint. The neighbourhood is awash with cheap noodle spots, sushi drive-bys, and little Korean places that offer deep-fried pork cutlets – all perfect for the large, international student population that flows in and out of the many schools in the area. There are signs of change, however. Cartems is just across the traffic light, and Cinara is a few blocks down.
The interior is from Sarah Gillespie of Live by Design and it’s a good-looking space. Polished concrete floors and the requisite heritage bricks walls are livened up with maple and pine-beetle wood. An open kitchen means every guest is loudly greeted at the door by the entire staff in traditional Japanese style. You can even watch them make the fresh ramen noodles through a little window if you need to stretch.
Executive chef Kazuya Matsuoka, along with chef de cuisine Michael Acero, has put out a menu that is big on flavour. Tomato-based broth is becoming popular in Japan, and Matsuoka’s version is a doozy – a tomato-saffron seafood broth that hints at bouillabaisse while still not overpowering the noodles (which are excellent). At $17, it’s a bit pricey, but it’s studded with mussels, clams, prawns, and scallops, as well as char siu chicken, and the size of the bowl makes it excellent for sharing. Smaller sizes are available if you’re dining solo or just want your own bowl.
Pork tonkotsu ($13.50) features a shoyu (soy) base, along with slow-cooked egg and large slices of char siu. The chicken ($13.50) has its choice of shio (salt) or miso base. It’s a smart set-up, and helps ramen neophytes by taking the guesswork out of which base pairs best with which protein.
As the name might suggest, the fried dumplings also get a lot of love here. Cooked using an ancient Japanese technique called “teppan,” these gyoza end up perfectly crispy on the outside while incredibly juicy on the inside, thanks to the use of the traditional – and very hot – imono cast-iron pans.
The classic pork ($8 for 7 pieces), sourced from the Fraser Valley and sided with two soy dipping sauces, exude so much juice they feel like a fried xiao long bao. Miso short rib gyoza ($12.50) with jalapeno-soy glaze are eye-rollingly good. There are also several small and large plates for those looking to expand the meal. Spanish mackerel slices are served with a mild wasabi chimichurri and toast. They’re delicious, but at $11 for two slices, it’s a bit precious for a starter. Wild salmon ceviche ($15) is a more generous portion of perfectly cured fish, lightly laced with Thai chilis. Nothing is overly spicy here, which is in keeping with the culture, but the pleasant heat helps cut the richness of the excellent broths.
Don’t forget to try out some of the cocktails. There are some fantastic vines, hops, and peats on the list (and sake, natch), all available by the glass, but cocktails like the Pender Collins ($9) – a solid shake of Tanqueray gin, Sauvignon Blanc from Seven Terraces, elderflower syrup, and a splash of soda and lemon – are a great start to the evening. Price points here are excellent, with most options not crossing the $10 mark.
If you can snag one, the ricotta crepe with yuzu-fig jam and yogurt sorbet is a perfect finish ($8). They tend to sell out, so order early.
Food: ★★★★
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★★
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
