Kokoro Ramen
5695 Victoria Dr.
778-379-7688
kokororamen.ca
Open Wed-Mon, 11:30am-9pm. Closed Tues
It seems like you can’t throw a rock these days without hitting a ramen shop. The popular noodle-soup joints are becoming more ubiquitous than sushi, and are showing remarkable staying power. (Of the more than one dozen that have opened in the last couple of years, only two have closed.)
Kokoro Ramen opened in November of last year. Located in the busy Victoria Drive hub at East 41st Avenue, it sits proudly on the northwest corner, not bothering to hide its blushes with bamboo-covered windows or any of the like. It’s all to the good: Walk in and you immediately appreciate the light and airy feeling from the tall, wide row of windows on one side. Pale wood banquettes and tables encircle a central communal dining bar that seats patrons around a central ledge that holds flowers, utensils and other mise en place. One wall is covered in bold arches of colourful paint, adding a nice focal point to the room.
Kokoro means “heart” or “spirit,” and there’s plenty of them on the menu. The vegetarian ramen ($10.50) has a base of kombu (seaweed), shitake mushrooms and coconut milk – a smooth, slightly creamy broth that comes topped with seasonal vegetables. (On a recent visit, that included kabocha squash, broccoli, corn, zucchini and carrots). The chicken-broth ramen ($12.50) is also a little creamy, and rich in umami; topped with torched chashupork, kabocha, broccoli, corn, snap peas and seaweed, it’s a delicious, light and remarkably healthy dish.
Speaking of health, owner Yasu Hiro serves his ramen in either black bowls (for traditional recipes) or white bowls (for more nutritious options). The kitchen also enjoys a bit of whimsy. A visit with my daughter saw her ramen topped with two hearts cut out of seaweed sheets. (I got one as well, so that I wouldn’t “feel left out.”)
Tonkotsu shoyu is the house ramen. Tonkotsu refers to a broth based entirely on pork bones that is not skimmed – rather, the fat is emulsified into the broth, making it extremely rich, thick and porky. Shoyu is soy sauce that is added to the tonkotsu for extra depth of flavour. The saltiness of the soy helps cut the fattiness of the broth. Kokoro’s version lives up to the descriptor. It’s dark, rich, salty and delicious. Paired with that torched chashu and the requisite slow-cooked egg, it’s an excellent way to ward off the rainy-day megrims.
For something different, try the Typhoon ramen ($12). The kitchen only makes about 30 portions daily, but it’s worth coming early to order it. This is a mazemen-style ramen, meaning no broth. Instead, it’s just noodles, green onion, house XO sauce, spicy miso, chashu, seasoned ground pork, wood ear mushroom, chilli-pepper threads and vegetables. Get it with the egg ($1.50) and go to town. A little dab of chili paste is also added to the side of the bowl, in case you want it extra spicy (but for just a pleasant heat experience, stick to the threads).
A word about portion sizes: They’re large. If you’re bringing your kids (or you’re not starving), go for a mini-bowl; at $7-$8 each, they’re a great deal and will fill you up at lunch. Add a side of the juicy chicken karaage ($3 for three pieces) and you’re set.
Ratings:
Food: ★★★
Service: ★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★
All ratings out of five stars.
★: Okay, nothing memorable
★★: Good, shows promise
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way
Anya Levykh is a freelance food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram.
