I walked by three times before I noticed it next to Turks on Commercial Drive. Teeny-tiny at 22 seats, with signage that’s easy to miss, this French bistro has run under the radar, for the most part, since opening approximately two years ago. That’s when owners Cory and Juliana Pearson returned to Vancouver after six years in Paris working at Michelin-starred restaurants.
Despite its size, Absinthe feels spacious and comfortable. Décor is kept to a minimum, but some stamped tin tiles on the wall, and a dark wood bar create some visual separation between the open (and miniscule) kitchen and the dining room. Tables are spaced a pleasant distance apart (no elbow rubbing here, thank goodness), and the atmosphere is convivial. The music is a key element, lots of 12-bar blues and jazz, as well as some more contemporary upbeat crooners. One corner hosted an obviously passionate couple, another a boisterous party of six. It’s a good mix, perfect for a casual night out. Dress up, if you prefer. The couple next to us one night had on evening wear more fitting for opening night at the opera, but still seemed to fit right in.
The food, though, is where the magic happens. Three starters, three mains and three desserts make up the entirety of the menu each night. Since these can change frequently (sometimes daily), the menu is posted daily on the website by 1pm. Starters are $12, mains are $21 and desserts are $10 each, but go for the prix fixe deal to really score. Any two courses for $28 or all three for $35 means you can feast like a stevedore for the price of one main at some “casual-upscale” restos.
Salmon tartare one night was splendid. A generous mound was coarsely chopped and perfectly dressed, served with micro greens and fresh radish. Chicken-foie terrine was brilliantly earthy, almost feral. Some house-pickled onions, mustard and cornichons completed the dish. Oddly, the only thing missing was bread, which we had to request. Mains like lamb shank were ridiculously large and fork tender, well braised in red wine and sided with parsnip purée. Beef bourguignon was reminiscent of a tiny village in the Loire where I once spent a few blissful days. Two desserts, a crème brûlée and a chocolate lava cake, weren’t memorable, but rice pudding with salted caramel sauce, served in a parfait glass, was excellent and addictive. I notice it’s been on the menu for a while, so mayhap it will be there when you visit.
The wine list is slightly (but only slightly) larger, and well-chosen. Reds from Bourgogne, Languedoc and the Rhine Valley are $12 a glass, a white Rioja is a steal at $9. And, yes, there is absinthe, three different kinds, in fact. Try the La Fée from France. A one-ounce drip is $10, but do try in a cocktail like the Naughty Fairy ($11) with persimmon vodka.
Final words of praise rest with the staff, both in front and back of house, who know their business like Sunday morning hangovers. Small and obviously tightly-knit, this team is wicked efficient, unobtrusive and gives the final polish to a fairly awesome experience.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ****
Service: ****1/2
Ambiance: ***
Value: *****
Overall: ****1/2
Absinthe Bistro | 1260 Commercial Dr. | 604-566-9053 | BistroAbsinthe.com
Open Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday, 5:30pm-8:30pm, Friday-Saturday, 5:30pm-9pm. *Closing time indicates time of last order and last guest seated.
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
