When Bill McCaig opened Nicli Antica Pizzeria in Gastown several years ago, it was the first certified Verace Napoletana pizza to be offered in Vancouver. The menu has stayed true to the ethos of Naples’ pizzaioli, offering classic ingredients with few dishes outside of the pie list, meaning if you felt like anything other than pizza, best to go elsewhere.
With the opening of Next Door a few months, ago, that limitation is now removed. The space adjacent to Nicli was formerly Vicino Pastaria & Deli, McCaig’s attempt at a resto-deli combination that – in large part thanks to city licensing issues – never got successfully off the ground.
No danger of that with Next Door. The licences are in place, the deli counter is gone, and, in its place, a rustic bar and ceiling-height wine wall stands ready. The room is not as sleek as its big sister, but with high ceilings and warm wood, it’s a comfortable, cozy spot to enjoy drinks and bites while waiting for a table, or settle into for a more substantial evening.
GM Anthony Sterne runs a great front-of-house crew, so service is excellent; knowledgeable, friendly and the up-selling is kept to a minimum. It makes for a perfect match to chef Keev Mah’s excellent renditions of the small but well-chosen menu.
Cocktails like the Girl Next Door ($12) are spot-on. Broker’s gin with basil, honey, lime, and egg white make for a frothy, refreshing beverage that pairs well with the chilled sweet pea soup (now a tomato version in keeping with what’s in season). At $3, it’s the perfect first bite (or sip), served in a small shot glass with a deep plate of crème fraiche mousse, parmesan and basil oil. Pour the chilled liquid over top and it’s a bright, happy palate freshener.
An Italian take on a Scotch egg ($5) is fantastic. Italian sausage surrounds fior di latte and a runny egg yolk just waiting for you to poke it free (how this is achieved is a mystery), while a smoked egg white aioli offers a pleasant sharp contrast to the almost-overwhelming richness of the dish.
None of the dishes run more than $12, so your wallet won’t take a beating, even for a full meal. Definitely save a few dollars for the ricotta gnocchi, served with smoked porchetta, chanterelles and chestnuts. A special one night of deep-fried and ricotta-stuffed zucchini blossoms is beautiful, while braised crispy pork belly is nicely balanced with sautéed kale.
I tried the white chocolate panna cotta for dessert one night, and, while it wasn’t my favourite version of this classic sweet dish, the raspberry and basil granita was lovely, and was nicely set off by a parmesan crisp. Not bad for the place next door.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★★
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Overall: ★★★★
Open Wednesday-Saturday, 5pm to late. No reservations.
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
