It’s easy to get blasé about salmon in BC. Despite our iconic fish’s various struggles, sometime it seems just about as ubiquitous as chicken. Don’t get me wrong, I love both chicken and salmon. When hanging around Vancouver for long periods though, I start to crave something more exotic. Returning from abroad, however, all I want is a delicious piece of coho or spring.
Right now it’s prime sockeye season. You could do worse than gorge yourself on this fine fish. Plus, it’s a highly appropriate protein for the barbeque and a tasty canvas on which to layer other flavours. Grilling gives it even more substance and its widely agreed that salmon is robust enough to stand up to reds. The key is to avoid full-bodied, tannic monsters that will simply overwhelm. (Save that Cabernet Sauvignon for a beef steak.)
The cliché red pairing with salmon is Pinot Noir, especially our local juice. Indeed, the two work beautifully together but there are plenty of other lighter reds with soft tannin that sing with salmon. The bracketed suggestions are wines I have recommended in the past.
Made from the light and fruity Gamay grape, Beaujolais is an obvious sidestep to Pinot Noir. (Try the 2014 Mathieu & Camille Lapierre, Morgon $39.99 BC LS). Italy offers plenty of light to medium bodied wines like Valpolicella, Bardolino (2013 Monte Del Frà $17.49 BC LS), Barbera and an uncomplicated, straightforward Chianti. Fine-boned versions of Cabernet Franc either from the Loire Valley (2013 Jean Maurice Raffault, Chinon $19.49 BC LS) or BC (something along the lines of the 2014 Harper's Trail) are also lovely matches.
Here's a few more new recommendations that are also fit for our flagship fish.
2014 Gabbiano, Chianti DOCG, Italy $13.49 BC Liquor Stores
Bright and pure red cherry, plum and tea nuances. This Chianti is simple but so drinkable and great value for the money. A zingy little number, it's a good choice if you are incorporating tomatoes into your salmon creation.
2013 Chateau Nakad, ‘Cuvée L’Alouette', Coteau de la Bekaa, Lebanon $17.49 BC Liquor Stores
A plumper red if you're looking for something with more girth. In fact, there's even some Cab Sauv in this. But a high percentage of daintier Cinsault keeps it light on its feet and tannins in check. It has an exotic spice edge along with wild strawberry blossom nuances. Try with a classic BBQ rub.
2015 Orofino, Gamay, Celestino Vineyard, Similkameen Valley, BC $23 winery direct
For a local match, go Gamay! Orofino’s is fresh, juicy and loaded with flavours of crunchy Skeena cherries. Tiny quantities made so now is the time to buy it AND drink it, especially with sockeye smothered is a strawberry sauce.
2015 Château de Nages, ButiNages Rosé, Costières de Nîmes AOC, France $23-25 private wine stores (Kitsilano & Marquis Wine Cellar, Granville & Crosstown Liquor Stores, Village & 16th Street Liquor Stores in West Van)
Technically not red, but rosé IS made from red grapes. Plus, the ButiNages matches salmon’s colour so perfectly. Grenache and Syrah lend baked thyme, raspberry and lavender notes to this dry rosé. You can echo the flavours by studding your fish with savoury summer herbs.
2014 La Pépiè, Cabernet Franc, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, France $27-30 private wine stores (like Marquis Wine Cellars)
Vibrant cranberry and red currants with very fine unobtrusive tannin. Really quite easy to guzzle. Play on its slight yet refreshing herbal character and serve minted green beans alongside your salmon.
