By Martha Perkins
Iain Hill dips his finger into the clear liquid that is burbling in a cup attached to the huge brass still at the Yaletown Distilling Company. The companys long-time head brewer and neophyte head distiller pauses as he absorbs the full impact of the gins flavours, noting the strong hints of juniper berries, coriander and bitter almonds. The flavours are intense because theres a bit more distilling to go before the gin is bottled and sold at the distillerys bar on Hamilton Street, but the promise of good things to come is definitely there.
While gin drinkers are accustomed to a distillers penchant for tinkering with flavours Hill wants to introduce lavender and bitter orange peel Hill also knows his vodka might take a bit of getting used to.
Personally, I like it as a sipping vodka, which is why it does have more flavour, he says of his version. But well probably end up with a couple of different vodkas.
Shaun Layton is the bar manager at LAbattoir but hes been working with the Mark James Group which includes the distillery, sister restaurant and lounge, the neighbouring craft beer company and liquor store to come up with some signature cocktails. He too likes the stronger taste of Hills vodka. This reminded me of Polish vodka because it actually tasted like something, Layton said during a recent media tour at the distillery. Most dont have much personality because they are distilled so many times.
Laytons created a vodka version of the French 75 with citrus, sugar and sparkling wine as well as introduced his take on the Vesper Martini, which James Bond drinks in Casino Royale, using vodka, gin and Cocchi Americano.
Yaletowns vodka might take a bit of getting used to for some cocktail drinkers but Fraser Boyer, the director of operations for the Mark James Group, believes that Vancouverites palates are ready.
The gin is a runaway success; the vodka you have to explain, he said. Were having the same challenge with the vodka that we had with IPA 19 years ago.
In December 1994, Yaletown Brewing Co. opened its doors and one of its first offerings was an India Pale Ale. No one bought it. Then the craft beer revolution happened and Yaletowns IPA is one of its most popular offerings.
The new distillery is part of the recent artisan spirits revolution, joining Long Table Distillery, Odd Society Spirits and Liberty Distillery in Vancouver. Yaletown Distilling Company creted the first tasting bar and is back-to-back with Paulies Kitchen and The Distillery Bar. Just as you can sit in Yaletown Brewing Company and look through a window at the brewery chugging away, people sipping cocktails at the bar can have a view of the distillery.
Hill has lots of ideas for other spirits, including a pear eau de vie. In his first experimental batch, it took 2,400 pounds of Bartlett pears to make about 80 litres of saleable spirits so hell finetune his recipe....
Meanwhile, his vodka and gin will be available at some BC Liquor Stores as well as the Yaletown Liquor Store and the distillery.
