Yaletown has come a long way from its labourer and long-haul roots. The former warehouse district used to be home to large commercial buildings that were gradually abandoned, then converted, into trendy lofts with exposed brick and great light. Unlike Gastown and Chinatown, however, this neighbourhood never faced the gentrification landmines of residential displacement and income inequality.
It was all new, if perhaps not so shiny, and some of the earliest restaurants here, like Capone’s Restaurant and Live Jazz Club, played up the gritty appeal of streets that were more loading bays than pedestrian thoroughfares. As with any developing area, gritty eventually gave way to glamourous, and it wasn’t long before Umberto Menghi opened Circolo. The dark and swanky Italian restaurant also sported a large bar crowd that happily slurped oysters and ordered caviar “in the Russian style” – which was anything but (shaved artichoke and bacon bits, really?) – with vodka (another egregious faux pas – champagne is the correct beverage pairing).
Despite the menu glitches, this was a big step for Yaletown, but, by 2007, Circolo had given way to Goldfish Pacific Kitchen. The bright and glitzy Bud Kanke property (of Mulvaney’s, The Cannery and Joe Fortes fame) was more about the scene than the menu, although the cocktails were much-lauded and innovative for their time. Today, it is the award-winning Minami restaurant, famed for its aburi sushi and sake program.
This was also the neighbourhood where the Glowbal Group restaurants got their start; first, with Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar (the satays are still on the menu at the new Telus Gardens location), and later, with Coast, before it became the behemoth of Alberni Street.
In between the glitz and caviar, there were some more intimate and serious dining options, such as Amarcord, which focused on the cuisine of the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, and Brix, the city’s first serious wine bar and restaurant, which is still in operation today.
The current restaurant scene runs the gamut from the serious food at Blue Water Café and Cioppino’s to the comfort-based fare at The Flying Pig and the oyster specials at Rodney’s.
With Taste of Yaletown coming up Oct. 11-27, there are more than 25 neighbourhood restaurants participating, offering everything from chocolates and pie to Japanese fusion and whiskey flights at $25, $35 and $45 price points. You can see the full list here.
Five places to check out during Taste of Yaletown
Fayuca ($45)
The new Mexican restaurant in the ’hood is really about food without borders, focusing on seasonal, sustainable ingredients that incorporate Mexican flavours. fayuca.ca
Provence Marinaside ($45)
The south of France and Mediterranean region have big influences on the menu here, in dishes like bouillabaisse, traditional duck rillettes, seared Lois lake steelhead, and more. provencemarinaside.ca
WildTale ($35)
Seafood is the catch of the day here, with everything from lobster bisque and blackened trout to surf ‘n’ turf options. wildtale.ca
Xoxolat ($25)
What’s a little chocolate without…whisky? Enjoy three whisky tastings paired with six chocolate treats at this artisan chocolaterie. xoxolat.com
DD Mau ($14)
Known for its bánh mì and rice noodle bowls, this special one-sandwich deal features fried softshell crab with Singaporean-style chili sauce, pickled red onions and watercress. ddmau.ca
Make your reservations today!
• Anya Levykh is a food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
