It’s said the third time’s the charm. That is, if you’re lucky enough to have three chances.
For Shane Taylor, wine director at CinCin Ristorante, winning the title of 2017 BC Sommelier of the Year was an exercise in persistence rather than luck. He has participated in the annual competition, hosted by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers British Columbia Chapter (CAPS BC), since it was established three years ago. After coming in second two years in a row, he finally claimed victory on January 9.
This year’s competition played out in the Captain’s Lounge in Rogers Arena. Sixteen of Vancouver’s finest sommeliers sat a “brutally hard” (as Taylor describes it) theory exam. Along with Taylor, top scorers Todd Prucyk (Hawksworth Restaurant) and Matthew Landry (the Stable House Bistro) qualified for the nerve-wracking practical portion. This service exam is conducted in front of an audience of trade professionals – in other words, their peers. Each of them was assessed on sparkling-wine service, decanting a magnum, food-and-wine pairing, correcting mistakes on a wine list, and an oral blind tasting.
Taylor compares the competition to “juggling chainsaws while walking on a tightrope over Niagara Falls.” Besides keeping nerves in check, “The blind tasting is, hands down, the most difficult part.” Competitors are given 18 minutes to identify the grape variety, region and vintage of four wines; the base material, origin and producer of two spirits; and the ingredients and name of a cocktail. “It’s also the glamour event, and the part that you want to do well in,” adds Taylor.
Having put himself through the gauntlet three times, Taylor clearly likes the challenge. For him, the thrill outweighs the fear. “It’s a great experience. If I didn’t win this year, I’d do it again next year and I would keep coming back. It also makes me better at my job.”
Working in a busy restaurant is obviously great training for the competition, but it’s not enough. “I’m studying theory two to five hours a day,” says Taylor. He also belongs to a tasting group with many of the other competitors, including last year’s winner, Alistair Veen (of South Surrey’s Tap Restaurant).
On what made the difference this year, Taylor believes he was better prepared for the cocktail and spirits testing, and he felt a greater level of comfort, having previously competed twice. Above all, he credits the advice of guest judge Véronique Rivest, who placed second in the 2013 Best Sommelier in the World competition. At a pre-competition seminar, she reminded contestants to relax and take their time. “I took that to heart. The last two years, I always finished with oodles of time to spare, so this year I really took my time to get set up, and it seemed to work.”
Taylor now has his sights set on CAPS’ national competition in September. Before that, in July, he’ll sit the Court of Master Sommeliers theory exam. “It will be a natural progression,” he says. However, the added challenge of the CAPS competition is that finalists must compete in two languages. “I’ll need to work on my French, because it’s non-existent. I have six months to become bilingual, basically.”
In the meantime, Taylor continues pouring wine at CinCin. His favourite menu pairing is Osso Buco with a saffron risotto and gremolata, and 2012 Damilano ‘Lecinquevigne’ Barolo. “They are dynamite together,” he enthuses. “I don’t think you get a glass of wine when you’re on death row. But if so, I’d have that.”
