Last year, I wrote about evolution of dining in the West End over the last century. Despite the oft-quoted maxim, “The closer to the water, the worse the food,” this vibrant neighbourhood has managed to turn out more than a few handfuls of delicious and innovative restaurants that have stood the test of both time and Vancouver’s notoriously fickle dining public. The newest arrivals on the scene are the proverbial canaries in a coal mine – they’re harbingers of what’s to come. From casual take-away options to revitalized old-school glamour and the abolishment of tipping, here are a few places that are signalling the next phase of restaurant culture in the West End.
Verifood
The name sounds like something chosen to represent a multi-national corporation, but it doesn’t get more mom ‘n’ pop than this. The name derives from the Italian word for “authentic” (verace) and this is as real as it gets. Vittorio and Lucia Checcacci moved here from Florence about a year ago and opened Verifood three months later. They brought with them Lucia’s grandmother, Luisa (yes, an actual nonna), as well as their two young children. The concept is simple; authentic, handmade Italian pastas made daily and served up in the casual café space or sold as take-home meals.
The lasagna uses DOP parmigiana and a classic Tuscan béchamel that’s smooth as silk. Ricotta filled with ricotta and spinach has a simple butter and sage sauce that sings, and the gnocchi are pillowy and comforting, especially with the four-cheese sauce. Get it with a side of the fried Tuscan bread balls filled with ricotta and cream cheeses, prosciutto and arugula. No liquor license, but a handful of quality coffees round out the menu (just don’t expect any frappuccinos here) and there’s usually a fantastic olive oil cake for dessert.
Ritual
The “ritual” here is new and otherwise unheard-of in Vancouver’s restaurant scene. Tipping is not only discouraged, it’s completely absent at this casual, comfort-driven eatery. Don’t worry, though, because everyone who works here actually earns a living wage (around $21 per hour) and receives benefits, which include vacation pay and MSP coverage. Any money left on the table is donated to A Loving Spoonful, a local not-for-profit that provides meals to people living with HIV/AIDS.
It’s a revolutionary concept, and time will prove it financially viable – or not. In the meanwhile, there’s the food, and it’s both new and familiar in equally pleasing measure. Remember those apple pie pockets from Mickey D’s? The rhubarb and apple pies here are built along the same lines, but tastier, and with better ingredients. How about tater tots in a Twinkie shape, served with tomato chutney? Or Hawaiian buns filled with teriyaki pork? More grown-up items round out the menu, including stellar yam-stuffed ravioli with sweet and spicy pecans, and soy-braised beef brisket. Several vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options are also available, and some menu items can be modified to suit dietary restrictions.
Just don’t forget the cocktails. Muddled mimosas are solid patio sippers and go well with the bananas Foster French toast on the brunch menu. Speaking of… the menu changes quite frequently, so expect some variations with every visit.
The Sylvia Hotel
It’s hardly new, but the grand old dame of the West End, the Sylvia Hotel, claims to be Vancouver’s original cocktail bar, and is, according to some sources, the birthplace of the city’s eponymous mixed drink. With almost 100 years under its belt, the heritage building was in need of a facelift, which came earlier this year courtesy of owner Jill Davies. The lounge was also given a makeover, and the new menu is full of classic cocktails and easy bites, both large and small, like the halibut and scallop ceviche tacos, beet and quinoa salad, or the classic Sylvia burger. A good collection of wines by the glass rounds out the beverage menu, and the bananas Foster bread pudding is a shareable dessert if you’re looking to generate some heat (both literally and figuratively) on your date.
More West End eats
The diversity of styles and cultures when it comes to dining in the West End can only be touched upon, but here are a few more places that are pushing limits in their own imitable ways. [Note: Click the names of the restaurants to read Anya's reviews]
The execution has smoothed out since this ethical eatery opened two years ago, and the cocktail menu might be the only one in the city that can boast health benefits to go along with its wild, foraged and sustainable menu. ExileBistro.com
This Mexican-inspired coffee shop and luncheria serves up some pretty amazing tacos, tortas and quesadillas. MolliCafe.com
Chef/owner Chris Whittaker of Forage opened up his second room a few months ago, and has been churning out excellent modern Canadian comfort food ever since. TimberVancouver.com
New chef Felix Zhou has reinvented the menu at this clean, bright room overlooking English Bay and is focusing on the casual, seafood-forward dishes that best exemplify Pacific Northwest cookery. BeachBayCafe.com
Across the street from St. Paul’s Hospital on Helmcken lies one of the city’s tiniest and tastiest rooms. Chef Kris Barnholden turns out beautifully plated dishes that play with elements that are foraged, fermented, and sculpted into delicious flavours that soothe the palate and the stomach. Latab.ca
Peruvian-Japanese cuisine in a fine dining setting overlooking the water, with solid cocktails and stellar wines? Yeah, totally predictable. (You get that was sarcasm, right?) Chef Ricardo Valverde takes two disparate cultures that have some history together and makes beautiful seafood. AncoraDining.com
Where would the West End be without a proper British pub that serves up British pale ale and mini Yorkshire puddings stuffed with succulent roast beef? España owners Ed Perrow and chef Neil Taylor opened this casual British pub in the old Le Gavroche space, and the bubble and squeak, and bangers and mash, have been flying off the plates nightly. TheFatBadger.ca
