A beloved Kitsilano restaurant with tons of heart has made a major leap by opening up a brand new location at one of the city's most eye-catching developments. Linh Café, a staple for French-Vietnamese cuisine, opened its doors this fall at Vancouver House, and are settling into their modern, spacious, and impressive digs.
Owned and operated by the husband-and-wife duo of Linh and Tai Nguyen, Linh Café has long been synonymous for soulful, satisfying Vietnamese and French bistro fare with a hint of Canadiana - one of their most popular dishes, after all, is a loaded brunch poutine you can take to the next level with the addition of lobster.
While Linh Café in Kits is on pause right now, gearing up for a potential renovation, all the focus is on the new restaurant at Vancouver House, which boasts a sleek contemporary bistro-style decor, high ceilings, tons of natural light, and an open kitchen. Serving lunch (a kind of brunch-y lunch) and dinner, Linh Café is securing its rightful spot among Vancouver restaurants that exemplify the best takes on French food, with that vibrant infusion of Vietnamese flavours.
It's not that Linh Cafe necessarily fuses the two cuisines - historically the French control of Vietnam is what we have to thank for the baguettes in banh mi, for one - but rather that the dishes co-exist rather beautifully, embracing both traditions. While I savoured a bright and beautiful beef tartar I eyed steaming bowls of pho as they were delivered to neighbouring tables.
Meanwhile, on our own table, a salad roll filled with house-preserved pork sat sliced and at attention on its plate, which was right next to a dish of freshly-shucked oysters. A thick juicy burger covered in a nearly-lacy veil of gooey cheese was nestled between pert brioche buns glistening with butter, nestled up against a wave of crisp golden frites. A sizzling cast iron skilled cradled a cassoulet of creamy beans, house-made sausage, and rich duck confit - perfect for swiping with a piece of crusty bread. For dessert, a slice of creamy bruleed lemon tart or some macarons fit the bill nicely for a sweet finish.
On both Chef Tai's brunch/lunch and dinner menus there is a more weighty presence of French dishes (words like escargot, terrine, cote de boeuf jump out from the virtual page), but the balance works, as it has for Linh Café in its original location for so long. That location closed in September, and we will have to stay tuned to learn what's next for them there. In the meantime, all the focus is on the new Linh Café, where the Nguyen's warm hospitality and comforting French and Vietnamese dishes can delight even more.
Linh Café is located at 1428 Granville St in Vancouver.
