It means a lot to Kevin Nguyen that he has the opportunity to showcase the flavours and dishes of his hometown right here in Vancouver.
The hospitality industry veteran has called Vancouver home for a few years and even worked in the kitchen at the Michelin Guide-endorsed Lunch Lady restaurant. This summer, he got the keys to his first solo venture, The Saigonville, and he set out to share 'the spirit of Saigon' with the city.
The Saigonville, which welcomed its first guests as summer was drawing to an end, occupies - by coincidence - the space on East Hastings vacated by the original Mr Red Café, a popular local Vietnamese restaurant with another location in Kitsilano.
The interior is bright and modest. It's light and tidy and lets the food take centre stage.
Open for lunch and dinner (with slightly different menus), The Saigonville offers dishes that gently push the boundaries of what Vancouverites may typically know about Vietnamese cuisine.
At lunchtime, for example, you will find two options for banh mi, the infamous sandwich from Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) on crusty French bread. However, Nguyen's version turns the humble sandwich into an interactive DIY adventure.
The Sizzling Beef Banh Mi (Bánh mì bò né) arrives on a skillet with the full volume of the final moments of cooking, and the bread on the side. Swipe some pate on the bread along with Saigon egg mayo and pile on slices of piping hot steak. It's fun, albeit incredibly rich and decadent, and turns "grabbing a banh mi" into more of a special occasion.
Much of the menu at The Saigonville works great for sharing, from starters like the tangy and refreshing Mango & Papaya salad (Gỏi xoài đu đủ) and Nguyen's signature Truffle Crab Spring rolls (Chả giò cua).
The absolute must-try, however, is the Fried Softshell Crab (Cua Lột chiên giòn), which you can wrap in lettuce and dip into fish sauce. The crab flavour is remarkably pronounced and enveloped in the most spectacular crunchy, golden-fried coating.
From the mains, the 4-Season Pork Chop Rice (Cơm Sườn Tứ Quý) is also excellent. It features a beautifully juicy grilled pork chop paired with shredded pork skin, a steamed egg and meat loaf, and a sunny side up fried egg with rice.
The Saigonville has a few noodle soups, like a classic beef pho (Phở Bò), along with a vegan pho, but my favourite was the Goat Meat Noodle Soup (Hủ Tiếu Dê), with perfectly slippery, slurp-able noodles and fragrant broth with fall-off-the-bone and deeply flavourful chunks of tender goat meat.
Many of the details at The Saigonville are what take the dishes to the next level, from the texture of the fried softshell crab to the many house-made condiments and components (from the crackers that come with the salad to the pickled veggies and dipping sauces).
Though I only experienced the lunch menu, Nguyen says he is quite proud of his fusion Vietnamese pasta dishes that are available at dinner. Those selections find rigatoni paired with things like stir-fried seafood or lemongrass chicken.
The specialty drinks are also noteworthy at The Saigonville and include everything from classic Vietnamese iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk to an earthy sweet-and-sour Tamarind with Coffee Jelly beverage.
The Saigonville is located at 2129 E Hastings St in Vancouver and is open for lunch daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. Starters range in price from $5 to $23, and mains from $12 to $29.
Video: Checking out The Saigonville restaurant in Vancouver
@forkingawesomevia I refuse to gatekeep this one because I really enjoyed the food at this new Vietnamese restaurant in Vancouver! Saigonville celebrates the dishes and flavours of the vibrant metropolis in Vietnam. They have familliar favorites but also some notable specialty dishes. My favourite was the fried softshell crab…it was so delicious! #forkingawesome #vancouverbc #vietnamesefood ♬ Hiphop/Chill/Lo-Fi(850064) - HomeMadeGarbage
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