Grandma taking a little nip to wind down at the end of the day is probably what comes to mind when you hear "sherry." So why is it that around the globe these days the Spanish fortified wine is so cool there are entire bars devoted to it?
Dominic Lockyer/Flickr
Sherry wines are made the white grapes grown near the city of Jerez de la Frontera in Andalusia, Spain; "Jerez" translates to "Sherry." While it's true that the cook in some old fashioned novel may have been nipping one kind of sherry on the sly in the pantry, there is a vast range of sherries to choose from, including many that drink--and go with food--just like the wine varietals we are more familiar with in Vancouver.
Lara Victoria of Cru Classe is a Certified Sherry Educator, and she is passionate about getting people excited about the broad spectrum of flavours and styles of sherry, from the dryness of a young Fino to the nuttier, woodier tastes of the aged and oxidized varieties.
Number one for Victoria is that people be open about sherry. "It's for any and every season," Victoria explains via telephone.
It's important for the sherry-curious to start with some basics, including the central categories of sherry, from the lighter, more white wine-like Fino sherries, to the sweeter Cream varieties (perhaps your grandma's sherry was among these). Then there are exciting sherries like the PX (short for Pedro Ximenez), which are beloved by bold mixologists and chefs who are doing creative things with this varietal that Victoria says is like "pureed raisins."
Speaking of food, sherry pairs exceptionally well with a variety of foods, so experimenting with parings is a great way to go.
Enjoy a chilled Fino or Manzanilla with shellfish and seafood, salads, or chilled soups, for example. Or Sip an Oloroso with roast pork, or a meat and cheese platter.
Bodega on Main/Facebook
Victoria says that while Vancouver may be a bit behind on the trend of sherry bars and sherry pairing menus, there are a few standout spots in the city to try if you want to enjoy sherry in a bar or restaurant setting. She recommends spots like The Sardine Can and Bodega on Main for their excellent sherry selections and food pairings, or even somewhere casual like Cabrito where you can easily pop in for a light tapas-style bite and sip on whatever sherry they may suggest.
Some Vancouver bartenders are also playing with sherry, as many of the styles lend themselves well to working in cocktails. You can rely on spots like Sardine Can and Bodega to play with sherry in their cocktails, but also top-notch drink spots like at Botanist are working sherry in, like in their B&T (Gin, Fino Sherry, Tonic, Botane tincture, Rosemary, Lemon, Mezcal Mist).
But if you are drinking it straight, you'll find that the lighter the sherry, the more generous the pour will be. So for your Fino and the like, you're really going to encounter it like a white wine, while the heavier, richer styles will work best with a restrained serving for sipping.
If you want to get to sherry in your own space, Victoria suggests having a tasting party--just grab some sherries, some food, and some friends. Tasting parties are actually Victoria's personal favourite way to try new sherries and share her own finds with friends, too.
To shop, you may need to spend a little time reading up on the styles--a site like Sherry.Wine is ideal, recommends Victoria--and then hit up your favourite independent liquor store or BC Liquor Store. While Vancouver gets to the business of learning to love sherry, getting a few bottles to try may take a little legwork from willing drinkers.
Sardine Can/Facebook
One other great way to learn about sherry is to take part in a workshop or class. Victoria says she'll have some new classes opening up in the new year, and she will also be leading the Sherry Master Class at the 2018 Vancouver International Wine Festival--which for this year will be showcasing the wines of Portugal, and sherry's motherland, Spain.
With so many opportunities to get to know sherry these days in Vancouver, there isn't much more to do but give it a go. Just bring an open mind, and then find the sherry to go with whatever you've got going on.
"There's a sherry for every mood!" says Victoria.
