There's a philosophy in the restaurant world that if you can run one place well, then you might as well do two well. It's a plan that's worked for many, especially when the rooms are in the same 'hood and don't have to compete for their audience.
Mark Taylor's tiny, perfect Cru restaurant on West Broadway near Granville has been wowing for almost a decade, with its artfully constructed small plates and refreshingly different wine list. It's long enough, figures Taylor, to take the plunge with something completely different.
Though just a few blocks away, Taylor's newly unveiled Siena (1485 12th Ave. at Granville, 604-558-1485) is the antithesis to Cru. While Cru is sedate, polished and white linen-ed twee, Siena is lusty, rustic, bare tabled and boisterous. It also brings some much needed Italian and Spanish tastes to the area.
Our visit on a packed Friday night met with a brief line-up that entailed a short wait at the four-seater bar, with a glass of Segura Viudas to pass the time. It wasn't long before we were tucked into a cozy table enjoying a plate of chorizo-stuffed grilled squid with a gutsy roasted red pepper sauce ($10). Siena reminds us a little bit of the West End's Nook (minus the wood fired pizza) with a similarly appreciative crowd. The chalkboard menu changes constantly and, seeing as space is at a premium, the tables turn relatively quickly.
Former Cru sous-chef Tim Evans' all natural meats, free range menu is suitably down to earth, encompassing freshly made pasta, a daily fish option, risotto and more substantial entrées such as strip loin and spaghetti and brick roasted chicken with plenty of small and share plates.
The good news is that most items come in under $20. And wines are equally affordable. If you go late, don't be surprised if some plates are no longer available, which is not necessarily a bad thing. We'll be headed back for the arancine (three for $6).
Our pasta plates were standouts: Braised lamb-filled ravioli, with truffled Pecorino, mint and orange gremolata ($18) was the fave, although the agnolotti stuffed with goat cheese with oven-dried tomatoes ($16) was a close second. In lieu of dessert, we succumbed to the omnibus cheese and salumi plate with fig jam, pear mostada warm olives and focaccia ($24). We'll be back for that again.
As expected, the concise, mainly Spanish and Italian wine list (all by the glass) is well thought out. It's also affordable. Ten-year-old, soft and supple Gran Reserva Ançiano Valdepeñas Tempranillo for $32? We're there!
Open from 5 p.m. nightly, no reservations, with plans for weekend brunch by next month. No surprise, with a strong following from Cru and the Stanley Theatre close by, Siena is already rockin'. And likely to stay that way.
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Unsung hero of last week's actionpacked Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival was Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre chef Blair Rasmussen, who dazzled the crowd of 400 from around the wine world with his Trade Days lunch, including an Ocean Wise tuna, scallop and halibut ceviche trio, and serano-wrapped Berkshire pork loin with jumbo prawn. Later in the week it was Lift Bar and Grill chef Scott Kidd's turn, when we picked his superb quail egg Benedict teamed with Chapoutier Tavel, as the best food and wine match of Vintner's Brunch.
March 9, 2012
