The state of Washington wine

Washington state, even though it’s our immediate neighbour to the south, is not on the wine radar for most British Columbians. It might seem strange that we don’t imbibe in more of the delicious wines from our nearest non-Canadian wine region, but the thick international line that divides us makes Washington feel a world apart.

That is about to change.

There will be an influx of Washington State wine coming to B.C. in 2024, but as grapes or juice rather than finished wine. In order to save jobs and keep B.C. wineries afloat after two devastating winters that robbed up to 90 per cent of the grape crop, the Government of B.C. has allowed a one-vintage free pass that allows wineries to supplement production with out-of-province grapes without having to pay the markup duties or change their type of licence to do so.

Most wineries that need supply are going to the closest source, so the time is relevant to learn about Washington wine and see what we can expect from B.C. wineries’ interpretation of the state’s 2024 grapes.

Similar, but different

In terms of climate, Washington is much like B.C.’s. Most of the wine is grown in the rain shadow of the Cascade Range that divides the wetter coast from the dry, sunny and arid interior. Only the small Puget Sound AVA lies west of the Cascade mountains, but it comprises less than one per cent of Washington’s 61,000 acres of vineyard land. Overall, the climate is similar with low rainfall, lots of sunlight and incredible temperature shifts from day to night and summer to winter, all of which encourage ripe fruit flavour and balancing crisp acidity

The big difference between Washington and B.C. wine country is space. Most of the Washington AVAs (American Viticultural Areas, U.S. regions or sub-regions similar to our Geographical Indications) have many fewer trees and much less exposure to lakes. Vineyards are spaced widely apart, often surrounded by fields of wheat or the famous sweet Walla Walla onions.

Washington has 20 different AVAs that have evolved over the years, the most recent in 2021 (Goose Gap, White Bluffs and The Burn of Columbia Valley). The big catch-all AVA is Columbia Valley, which captures 99 per cent of the grapes grown in the state. The rest are smaller chunks nestled within.

Many Washington AVAs are based on soils defined by the Missoula floods, their version of the Okanagan’s Glacial Lake Penticton and the ice dam that failed spectacularly at the end of the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago. Its dramatic outpouring of water and dirt shaped the terroir of the southern Okanagan Valley.

On the other side of the border, there was Glacial Lake Missoula (which is actually in Montana). Approximately 15,000 to 13,000 years ago, a weakening ice dam sent unimaginable floods through the Columbia Valley. As in the South Okanagan, this created specific soil types that went a long way to define wine regions thousands of years later. In addition, much of the bedrock in Washington is basalt from volcanic activity throughout the Columbia Basin; terroir geeks get excited about the layers of volcanic ash in some hillside regions.

Being a little farther south, Washington in general is a touch warmer, but the range of grape varieties that can be successful on the varying soils, aspects, latitudes and elevations is similarly diverse as what we see in B.C.

So why don’t we see more Washington wine here in Canada? It is largely down to tax, and Canada’s notoriously high markups on wine. Only 17 Washington wines are listed on the BC Liquor Stores’ website, and it is no surprise why when a quick price search shows a wine available in Seattle for US$12.97 goes for CAD $37.99 plus tax in B.C. As many British Columbians frequently travel to Washington, they know the price there and struggle with the markup.

Bringing wine home from Washington isn’t a viable option either. Above the personal limit of a couple of bottles, you will still be dinged the markup at the border, but this time on the retail price, making it even more expensive. You will end up paying over 100 per cent of the purchase price in taxes and duties for most wines. (Conversely, taking wine from B.C. to Washington, the duty is a matter of cents per bottle.)

A bailout for both sides

It is a different situation for the grapes and juice that are coming across the border this harvest season. After all, bringing in Washington grapes is not just a bailout for B.C. from friendly neighbours. It is timely for Washington growers, too.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is one of the largest wine companies in the U.S. and typically crushes more than half of all Washington grapes. Last year, the winery announced that it was cutting production by 40 per cent, due to overall slowing sales and repositioning to the growing premium wine segment. That is as devastating to grape growers as a cold snap from Mother Nature.

And while Washington was hit by the same freeze that devastated B.C. in January, it wasn’t hit as hard, so there are a lot of excess grapes that need to find a home.

The 2024 one-time deal, then, is a Band-Aid for the wine industry on both sides of the border.

Severine Pinte, winemaker for Le Vieux Pin and La Stella Winery, needs fruit while the wineries’ South Okanagan vineyards are rebuilding. She started her search at Washington’s Red Mountain AVA, based on its quality reputation. Red Mountain is a small AVA, known for producing ripe, structured grapes from its warm, dry, southwest-facing slopes. She also has grapes coming from the similarly warm Wahluke Slope AVA and the larger Horse Heaven Hills AVA.

“The vineyards are so different in Washington, with the spaces so vast and then, all of a sudden, vineyards planted close to rivers where there is water,” Pinte says. “Very different from in British Columbia where our vineyards are tucked in amongst the mountains, lakes and trees.”

Mike Clark of Clos du Soleil has also been across the border to source grapes for white and rosé wines, selecting vineyard sites in the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs after multiple visits and wine tastings.

“While we are all about Similkameen terroir, we are really excited by the opportunity for this one-off vintage,” he says. “We want to make wines in the same style that Clos du Soleil customers are used to, but that also reflect some of the highest quality grapes available in Washington state.”

It is well worth a visit to Washington wine regions to see how the climate, terroir and the grapes British Columbians know so well evolve as you head south. Be prepared for lots of driving and open space. And if you are buying 2024 replacement vintage wines from B.C. wineries, ask where the grapes are from and take the opportunity to learn about the place, too.