The big yellow sign proclaiming "Koko" to anyone driving down East Hastings Street will soon be coming down.
Koko Japanese Restaurant, a pillar in the city's early sushi scene, will be closing permanently soon. Staff say the last day will be June 14, as owner and chef Kuni Shimamura is retiring.
Koko opened in September 1982 and was the follow-up to Chef Koji Shimamura's (Kuni's father) earlier restaurants. Described by the Vancouver Sun at the time as "the city's premier sushi man" it was noted that Koko was Shimamura's first shot at running a restaurant solo.
It seems it was a success, as archived newspaper reviews of the restaurant show food writers returning there regularly over the decades. In one 1984 Sun review, was focused on the budget-friendly nature of Koko's sushi.
"After a recent meal at the Koko, where most entrees cost less than $5, a friend and I left feeling more than satisfied, all for a bill that totalled $20.95, before tax and tip," wrote Elizabeth Godley.
The food on the menu hasn't changed much over the last four decades. For example, one review in The Province from October 1982 (a month after it opened) noted the Koko deluxe maki, mackerel (saba) battera (pressed sushi), and chicken karaage; all are still on the menu - though the prices have gone up.
Also remaining for more than four decades of business are Koko's tatami rooms with low tables and traditional floor mats. Guests leave their shoes at the entrance to the private spaces.
The space is not elegant or fancy, though the sushi bar does offer a bright splash of colour with a Japanese-style mural of a crashing wave dominating the wall behind the busy sushi chef.
While it's been around for a long time, it may be difficult to find a table at Koko in the next couple of weeks as staff noted there's been a boost in business since its impending closure started circulating. The business has remained in the family the entire time, and many longtime fans have been coming in for take-out or sit-down meals to show their respects to the Shimamuras and the staff.
Koko is open Wednesday to Saturday with lunch service from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner service from 5 to 8 p.m.
With additional reporting by Lindsay William-Ross
Video: Saying goodbye to one of Vancouver's oldest sushi restaurants
@forkingawesomevia This is one of the oldest Japanese restaurants in Vancouver. But if you want to check it out you’re going to have to hurry and definitely make a reservation! #forkingawesome #vancouverbc #sushi ♬ 9PM in Shibuya - ADTurnUp
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