A journey to Hong Kong isn't complete without exploring some of its breathtaking backyards...and I'm not talking about the views from Victoria Harbour.
Known for shimmering skyscrapers soaring among the highest in the world and densely populated streets with bustling markets and eateries, Hong Kong might not strike you as a hiking, rural, or beach destination.
But the former British colony offers some of the most diverse landscapes anywhere in the world, featuring historic fishing villages, uninhabited islands, breathtaking hikes, a massive Buddha in a thickly forested area, and several white-sand shores.
My recent 10-day stint in the destination provided unique experiences in Mother Nature, complete with flourishes of butterflies, warm rain, emerald waters, and serene moments juxtaposing my time spent in the centres of the sprawling urban oasis (and its awe-inspiring architecture that had my neck bent so far back it started to hurt). Best of all, many of these destinations are easily accessible via transit.
Dragon's Back Hike
The Dragon's Back has been voted the best urban hike in Asia numerous times and I would be flabbergasted if there was a better contender. As a born-and-bred British Columbian, I've experienced several awe-inspiring hikes. However, this urban trek offers a magical experience that takes a second to absorb-it strikes you with beauty a few minutes into the excursion.
To get there by transit, take the MRT to Shau Kei Wan station on Hong Kong Island. Afterward, board the city bus 9 toward Shek O and get off at Lan Nai Wan, Shak O Road.
The bus drops hikers off right at the trailhead, making it an ideal spot for tourists who don't have vehicles. It's also a scenic ride up the mountain, although the buses move quickly. I had a regular bus on the way up, which moved lightning quick. On the way back, I relaxed in a double-decker that moved more slowly to navigate the hairpin-sharp mountain turns.
The lion's share of the hike invites gasps and "wows" from travellers as they are met with spellbinding views of the harbour, forested mountain slopes, and city centres cast out in all directions.
In my experience, hikes may have a couple of lookouts on the way to the climax where adventurers are met with the final prize for their strenuous undertaking. This isn't the case for this mountainous gem.
The Dragon's Back is a visual gift that never stops giving from the moment you first emerge from under the first tree canopy. I stopped to ask passersby to take a photo of me in the first viewing spot because it was so beautiful I didn't think I'd get another like it.
Not only would I enjoy several more jaw-dropping vistas, but they would also get increasingly better, with some spots eliciting a sort of beauty-struck wince from my awe-struck countenance (have a look at a video of the trail highlights at the bottom of the story).
Considerations for the Dragon's Back Hike
On a sunny day, you will spend a lot of time in direct sunlight so it is a good idea to wear sunscreen and pack plenty of water. Although it isn't a difficult hike, some steeper areas and terrain require attention. The hike is also located on Hong Kong Island where most people stay when they visit the destination. I stayed in the Whampoa neighbourhood in Kowloon across the water and it only took me just over an hour to get to (and that was with stopping for milk tea). Visitors staying on the island may get there quicker.
I embarked on the hike solo and wasn't nervous at any point until the end when I went around the side of the mountain instead of heading back the way I came. Since there were lots of people on the main trail across, I felt very safe. On the way back, I never felt unsafe but it was getting later in the evening and I realized I hadn't seen anyone on the trail in a while.
Solo hikers may want to stick to the main trail across the mountain (at least later in the day). That said, I was met with a flourish of vibrant butterflies at "golden hour" by myself on the side of a breathtaking mountain and it is one of my favourite memories. I kept seeing more and more of them and it felt like they were following me. It's quite an incredible feeling to feel truly alone in a place as bustling as Hong Kong and find such a serene and peaceful oasis.
Hikes near Vancouver
While the City of Vancouver doesn't have hikes with soaring mountain views, locals have several high-altitude options in the Lower Mainland.
Quarry Rock and the Grouse Grind are a couple of the most accessible (and closest) options via transit. Both are located in North Vancouver and offer spellbinding views from their finales but don't feature many (or any) panoramic views along the way.
Quarry Rock requires a SeaBus ride via TransLink from downtown Vancouver. At the Lonsdale Quay bus loop, visitors bus #239: Capilano University to Phibbs Exchange bus loop and then transfer to bus #212 to Deep Cove. Alternatively, other bus options avoid the SeaBus. This process can take up to a couple of hours.
Locals who want to get some cardio may prefer to do the Grouse Grind. The popular hiking trail provides a great workout features a jaw-dropping view from the top (and a place to get a beer and a burger). You can also take the gondola down so you don't have to deal with your knees buckling down the mountain. However, the upward climb isn't exactly exotic; it is more of an upward march that feels a pinch monotonous (although it beats a gym stepper on any day). If you don't drive, you'll need take the SeaBus to the Lonsdale Quay bus and take bus #236 to Grouse Mountain (or a couple of buses).
Dog Mountain Trail is another popular, easily accessible trail located in Mount Seymour Provincial Park that can take anywhere from under an hour to even less depending on how far you want to go (you can stop at the first lake or other points).
The elevation changes on the hike are minimal, regardless of what area you hike to, meaning they are suitable for most fitness levels. However, the area does not afford the same awe-inspiring views from the start, and you can't see the city as closely.
Hikers must get off at Rupert Station (about a 20-minute trip from Waterfront Station) before transferring to the Mt Seymour Shuttle Bus. The shuttle costs $15 for a return trip and takes around 50 minutes to reach the resort. This is a much more involved (and costly) experience than a city bus to the Dragon's Back.
Big Buddha and Ngong Ping 360 cable cars
For another kind of outdoor adventure to experience while visiting Hong Kong, the Ngong Ping 360 gondola journey takes visitors up to the Tian Tan Buddha. It's the world's second-largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha, sitting at an impressive 34 metres tall. The Buddha is located on Lantau Island, where you'll find the world-renowned Hong Kong International Airport (HKG).
A moment with the Buddha isn't one you will ever forget, particularly after the spine-tingling gondola rides up to it. While it may feel like child's play for thrill-seekers, anyone squeamish with heights may feel a tad nervous in the all-glass cars (including me). If you can get over that anxiety, the 25-minute cable car ride offers a once-in-a-lifetime perspective of the region, including views of the international airport, the sea, and the densely forested area around the Buddha.
Visitors climb 268 steps to reach the base of the Buddha. A circular path around the gleaming statue allows ample angles to view the massive statue and time to contemplate the beautiful mountain setting.
The area before the statue has several other statutes, shops to browse, and places to eat. Visitors enter through a beautiful gate to the area.
Sai Kung
Sai Kung District is known as "the back garden of Hong Kong" and is home to quaint fishing villages, markets, hiking trails, peaceful islands, and geological formations not found anywhere else on Earth.
I made a solo trek to the area and was awarded a completely different experience than I enjoyed anywhere else. Once the city bus started rolling into the area, I felt transported into another world. Lush jungle canopies stretched out as far as the eye could see, with only hints of civilization poking out in the distance. As the second-largest of Hong Kong's districts, the view changed as we made our way through the forested mountains, transitioning to flatter terrain freckled with pastoral fishing and hiking spots.
I got off in the picturesque Sai Kung Town where most of the "action" is concentrated (it is a sleepy seaside town, so don't expect Hong Kong Island's buzz). Still, there's something decidedly alive about this unique spot. Fishermen and tour operators line the idyllic shore, selling excursions to places you can't find anywhere else. I tried to buy one of them, but I arrived too late in the day and opted for a day trip to Sharp Island instead.
Since it was late in the day and I could only enjoy strolling around the island for an hour and a half or so, I only paid around C$5 for the ride. It was fun to check out and it would be nice to go for a beach day or if you have young children; the waters have a lovely emerald hue and there are places to barbecue and hang out.
The experience I wanted was a boat tour that would take me to several unique locations in the UNESCO Global Geopark. You can hike to several of these key spots, while others are only accessible by boat. The park has several hexagonal rock columns and cliffs that soar up from the ocean, weathered by over 100 million years.
UNESCO considers the park one of the 100 most important geological sites in the world. Visitors can join the Sai Kung Volcanic Rock Region Sea Tour at Volcano Discovery Centre to see them up close on boat excursions.
You can take bus 92 Sai Kung Town Centre from MTR Diamond Hill Station or bus 299X from Sha Tin Central Bus Terminus. You will find the Volcano Discovery Centre at Sai Kung Waterfront Park, next to the Sai Kung Bus Terminus.
You can also stay for a portion of your holiday in Sai Kung. With ample waterfront accommodation options to choose from, you can select a spot within your budget. There are also several restaurants in the city centre.
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