A crescent moon is affixed to the exterior of what looks like an old Spanish-style house perfectly nestled underneath a modern multi-storey apartment building.
The moon represents Selene, the Greek goddess of the moon, and the house has been in that spot at 360 Penticton St since 1928.
While only the facade remains, the exterior of the nearly century-old duplex has been carefully worked into the new build, making it another visually interesting example of how redevelopment can honour the past in Vancouver.
The new occupant of the former Swanson Residence happens to be a business, however, with the residences now on the floors above. The business is a new Greek-Mediterranean restaurant from the same team behind the Michelin Guide-recommended Vancouver spot Nammos Estiatorio.
Selene Aegean Bistro is also a beautiful meld of past and present in the form of food (though even the music in the restaurant shifts from traditional to contemporary).
Inside, the space is awash in soothing soft tones of beige and cream with pops of dark blue. The details are impeccable: Napkin rings spell out "Selene" in a wavy almost fairy tale font while the cutlery handles all have a snail-shell kind of curl. The room strikes a smart balance between elegant and easygoing, offering all kinds of guests the chance to enjoy Selene, from families with kids in tow to date night. The prices are on the higher side, but are on par with comparable restaurants and dining experiences; the menu format allows some flexibility in spending.
What's on the menu at Selene in Vancouver
The menu, which features a variety of small and large format dishes all designed to share, reflects a foundation in the flavours and foods of the Aegean region, meaning coastal Greece and Turkey, on the Aegean Sea. Created by Head Chefs Adrian Nate and Arish Dastoor, the dishes blend locally sourced ingredients and culinary traditions in exciting and contemporary interpretations - there's that old blending with new again.
A quartet of honey-brushed rolls, a take on Greek sesame bread called koulouri, are served with a briny kalamata olive butter, presented in a perfect circle in a pool of olive oil. Silky hummus veers on the Turkish side and is laced with fragrant cumin and topped with diced lamb (soujouk keema) that you scrape up onto torn pieces of a thick, fluffy pita.
The Horiatiki is a next-gen Greek Salad. Cubes of feta are soaked in red wine vinegar, and amidst the olives, cucumber, green pepper, and fresh oregano leaves is a mix of raw cherry tomatoes and plump, juicy skinless marinated tomatoes. The contrast in textures is thrilling.
While the Wild Salmon Crudo from the "meze" section of the menu is bright, light, and refreshing, the Lamb Ribs (under the header "half moon") are hearty and intense. This is a standout option for omnivores; the ribs are meaty, and tender, and kissed with sweet stickiness from pomegranate BBQ sauce.
The last portion of the menu is for bigger platters. Called "full moon," the grouping includes options like a whole branzino or 12-ounce striploin. The pasta dish features a traditional handmade Cretan pasta (skioufihta) paired with brisket stew (stifado). It's hearty and rich with a touch of tang, and Selene's position as an upscale spot is never more clearly evidenced than in the perfectly square cubes of beef in the stew.
House cocktails, zero proof drinks, and wine
From the bar (which awaits the arrival of its seats) are handcrafted cocktails by mixologist Dylan Zrobek, featuring many spirits and flavours of the Aegean region. I tried the smoky, herbal Elpis & Moros, made with cognac, ouzo, “cola” Amaro blend, and "Pandora’s smoke."
There are several zero-proof options as well, like the refreshing Katharos (with chamomile, lemon verbena, green sage, sour honey, and soda), as well as an extensive wine list.
Currently, Selene Aegean Bistro is open from 5 to 10:30 p.m. daily and reservations are strongly recommended.
Watch: Checking out one of Vancouver's newest restaurants, Selene
@forkingawesomevia New Vancouver restaurant alert! 🚨 Selene Aegean Bistro is the newest hotspot in Vancouver for fresh Greek-Mediterranean flavours. From the team behind Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant Nammos, this exciting new spot is perfect for date night, an upscale family meal, or a special dinner out. Here’s a look st some must-order dishes on the menu. #forkingawesome #vancouverbc #aegean ♬ Feel Good - Tundra Beats
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