Earlier this fall, a light fixture hung outside an East Vancouver storefront undergoing some upgrades was one of the few clues that something exciting was afoot at 1670 Commercial Dr.
The address now belongs to Pax Romana, a tapas-style bar and restaurant offers menu of Mediterranean food and cocktails.
Pax Romana opened in early December.
The name is drawn from the historic era of peace (pax) between members of the Roman Empire (so if you need further proof that the "Roman Empire" is something modern people think about all the time, look no further).
"During Rome's Golden Age, trade on the Mediterranean flourished and, by extension, so did its surrounding countries," explains the Pax Romana team in an email to V.I.A. In this era, when peace was promoted, "Pax, the goddess of peace, was worshipped and celebrated."
The co-ownership team of Pax Romana represents a union of some key players from a couple of existing Italian restaurants on The Drive. Currently the Manager of Sopra Sotto, Damiano Pedrolli serves as GM of Pax Romana and is joined by Daniel Dominguez of Sopra Sotto, who is its beverage director. Enrico Fratoni, Sopra Sotta's executive chef for both locations, will be a chef at Pax Romana. Luke Boswell, a consulting chef, is involved, though he remains in place down the street as the executive chef at Bar Corso.
When the former The Drive coffee bar's space became available, the crew jumped at the chance to create something special and new. Everyone involved has "a strong connection to the neighbourhood," notes Pax Romana. The industry pros then asked themselves what unifies them. "The answer was two-fold: a love of the Commercial Drive neighbourhood and of Mediterranean cuisine," describes the owners.
The neighbourhood is not just the spot on the map for the Pax Romana team, who want their name and concept to reflect not just the menu but also the community itself: Vancouver's Little Italy as we know it today.
"The main idea is to create a multifaceted tapas bar that highlights the best small plates of the Mediterranean while creating a fun, gathering point in the neighborhood that we love."
Share plates at the core of Pax Romana's tapas bar menu
When it comes to the food, Pax Romana's menu features "a variety of small, shareable items," such as conservas (tinned fish) and cured meats, designed to go alongside cocktails or wine. However, the food includes more substantial options, like Lamb Tagine.
A more robust meal could easily be made by ordering several small plates; tapas items will also include chicken liver pate, bacala mentecato (a whipped salted cod crostini), and marinated anchovies, for example.
The rabbit terrine comes with fresh bread and pickled mustard seeds, which makes it very share-able and interactive. The sardines are perfectly briny and salty with the added crunch of chopped walnuts; a dish like this makes perfect sense at a taps bar as it will have you craving something to sip on, likely by design.
For sips, the Live at Pompeii is a great opener; it's citrus-forward and refreshing. For those in search of a bit of a caffeinated boost, Pax Romana is making a fantastic espresso martini, using fat-washed white rum. The result is a delightfully light and balanced sipper that never veers to far into the too sugary territory, as espresso martinis can easily do.
"We felt that the concept of Pax and Rome’s Golden Age gave us a solid foundation for the freedom to be creative with our menu while upholding the values of the venue that we are hoping to establish," the business owners elaborate.
Pax Romana has 35 to 40 seats inside, but it does not have bar seating. An additional six seats will be available on the patio when it opens next year.
The team brought on Janine Spartano as the interior designer; Spartano is the designer behind both Sopra Sotto locations and another Drive hot spot, Loula's Taverna.
Interior a layering of traditional and modern
The interior is meant to evoke a small European bar that is "polished yet welcoming." Working with existing more rugged architectural elements, the room works in traditional finishes such as warm woods, polished stone tables, decorative upholstery, and mosaic tile floors alongside modern touches like bent-wood chairs and molten gold accents.
Ultimately, Pax Romana's decor reflects the notion that the modern drinks and food destination is building in layers atop the old world feel of the space and neighbourhood, while welcoming all, and evoking "the ancient Roman ruins" of the Mediterranean.
There's room for playfulness, however, and nowhere is that more evident than with that simple, intriguing sign out front, which is a square box affixed towards the top with some drawings. The eye-catching branding by Vancouver design powerhouse Glasfurd & Walker features the outline of a peace sign on the underside of the square light fixture affixed to the exterior, as well as that of a cherubic figure capturing a spray of liquid in a wine glass while riding a dolphin.
Pax Romana says the minimal signage "creates a sense of mystery, allowing for a sense of play and a bit of adventure upon entry." In fact, they call their tapas bar venture "Charming and cozy. A little bit dramatic and mysterious," and "cheeky and playful."
Above all, the goal is to offer a neighbourhood option that urges guests to slow down and drink and dine Mediterranean style and to "create a classic and welcoming space where people can gather to enjoy amazing drinks and great food in good company."
Follow @paxromana.vancouver on Instagram for updates.
Video: Trying the food and cocktails at Pax Romana in Vancouver
@forkingawesomevia I think I found the best Espresso Martini in Vancouver. New bar/restaurant to try for cocktails & small plates. #forkingawesome #vancouverbc #vancouverfoodie ♬ Real Love Baby - Father John Misty
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This article was originally published on Oct. 4, 2023 and has been updated with additional information.
