It's been over a decade since the name "Luigi" has been synonymous with coveted plates of hand-made pasta and "in the know" intimate dining in Vancouver.
That's thanks to Ask for Luigi, the wink-wink name of the acclaimed Italian restaurant that opened in late 2013 in a converted house in Railtown. Now a Michelin Guide-endorsed establishment, its operators, Kitchen Table Restaurants, have been leaning on Luigi since the early pandemic era to represent its line of marketplace goods, including - you guessed it - house-made pasta.
While KT's Pastificio di Luigi landed at an ideal time for take-home restaurant eats, the business ultimately evolved and found a home in the former Oh Carolina space, with Mercato di Luigi (Luigi's Market) launching as a hybrid grocer-cafe in early 2023.
Mercato di Luigi opened second Vancouver location in late 2024
Late last year, the Mercato's sibling began pulling espresso shots and serving Italian pastries and casual deli fare, alongside a mini-marketplace, at a second location in Chinatown.
The KT team transformed the former Matchstick at 213 E Georgia St, offering a few seats in the café by the front entrance and creating a grocery section along one side of the room on an elevated platform. While the coffee and deli counter - stocked with dolci and imported Italian cheese and meat for the daytime crowd - runs the length of the left side, there's something else tucked in the back.
Meet Luigi, in another form. This time, it's his Cantina, an intimate dinner spot with dim lighting, plenty of vino, and a brief menu laser-focused on simple, well-executed Italian antipasti and portions of house-made pasta.
“We wanted to create a space that feels like a discovery, something intimate, atmospheric, and a little mysterious," said KT Culinary Director Chanthy Yen in a media release. "With its warm glow and cellar-like ambiance, Cantina di Luigi invites you to slow down, enjoy a glass of wine, and linger over dishes that feel both familiar and unexpected," continued the Top Chef Canada Season 11 winner.
No reservations for coveted tables in intimate, hidden space
Cantina di Luigi opens for service at 5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and is walk-in only. As café staff pack away the deli cases, those hoping to score a table for dinner gather near the doorway to be escorted back group by group to the restaurant, which is essentially hidden from view.
High ceilings give the tiny space breathing room. Wine cubbies flank one wall, and as part of a new fun offering, old-fashioned tags dangle from several bottles' necks; guests who order wine by the bottle can opt to fill out a tag for their empty to commemorate their meal and even come back to find it on their next visit.
There is an impressive wine list at Cantina di Luigi, featuring Italian selections by the glass or bottle, including fizzy Prosecco and Lambrusco options and even a well-priced house selection ($7.50) for both red and white. Alongside the wines are some beers and an Italian-inspired cocktail menu (Negroni, Americano, spritzes) and digestivo and aperitivo liqueurs.
For those not imbibing, Cantina di Luigi has some Italian sodas, like chinotto, as well as mocktails.
Menu at Cantina di Luigi focuses on simple, well-executed Italian classics
When it comes to the food, expect approachable plates showcasing classic flavours and techniques with top-quality ingredients. Fresh sourdough foccacia is provided for the table, however, guests can add on accompaniments like cultured butter or olive oil for an additional charge; the two pasta dishes I tried were not super saucy, so having the butter for the fluffy bread with a lovely crunchy crust was a savvy play.
To start, simple salads or fresh bites like halved eggs with anchovy fillets and salsa verde, or creamy orbs of buratta with rich, fatty slices of prosciutto are a few ways to open your meal.
Pasta is the focal point for Luigi, and there are about a half-dozen on the menu, including any specials. These are not big bowls of noodles swimming in sauce or under blankets of gooey cheese. You'll find fresh pasta, cooked al dente, with traditional sauces, like reedy spaghettoni cacio e pepe (pleasantly pepper forward) or wide ribbons of tender pappardelle in a hearty venison ragu.
For dessert, some similarly simple options, like a creamy classic tiramisu served in a glass, olive oil cake with citrus, or gelato. It bears mentioning that Luigi's sweet sibling is downtown gelateria Motoretta, so they're scooping the good stuff.
Grocery section another draw at Mercato/Cantina
As KT's Director of Hospitality Matthew Morgenstern explained while on duty at Cantina di Luigi, the premise of the restaurant is to put simple, well-made Italian dishes on the table. The goal is to ultimately echo some of the restaurant options in the form of take-home grocery items and give the guests another way to get a little Luigi at home.
For now, as Cantina di Luigi gets off the ground, guests are encouraged to walk in, nab a table, and enjoy what they are working on. By day, the Mercato is fully up and running, and so long as the front door is open, the grocery shelves are available to shoppers.
Cantina di Luigi is a thoughtful extension of the Ask for Luigi brand in Vancouver, and with its small space and focused menu, guests can easily experience a bit of an Italian escape behind the back wall.
Video: Inside the new Vancouver restaurant Cantina di Luigi
@forkingawesomevia No reservations. No huge menu or massive portions. Just simple, classic Italian dishes like house made pasta and antipasti with an excellent wine list served up in a hidden, moody, intimate space tucked inside a Vancouver Italian cafe and grocer. #forkingawesome #vancouverbc ♬ Talk to me. - Bolden.
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