There's a reverential quiet enveloping the room as the guests booked in for the first seating are shown to their perches at the long, sleek bar.
Before long, the first sounds of the charcoal grill add to the restrained murmurs of greetings. The counter slices through the centre of the room lengthwise, with each seat offering a view of the grill, which is loaded with binchotan, a special kind of odourless Japanese charcoal.
At the grill is the proprietor, Chef Pete Ho, and this is his new Vancouver restaurant, Sumibiyaki Arashi. He keeps a wide, round fan nearly the span of his back tucked into his apron, reaching for it to occasionally use its steady flaps to direct the flames before tucking it back into place.
Later in the evening, Ho will explain why he grills with his back to the customers: City regulations about the distance between the grill and seats would have made for a tough layout in the space, so he opted to place the grill against the wall.
New restaurant offers unique dining experience: omakase yakitori
It's still a marvel to watch Ho at the grill, as this is the technique he has been mastering for much of his culinary career.
Sumibiyaki Arashi offers guests the rare chance to experience an omakase yakitori meal in Vancouver. It's a chef-driven meal centred around grilled skewers of various cuts of chicken, though courses of other showcase seasonal ingredients are interspersed throughout.
All told, the pre-booked dinner, served for just a few guests in the fully renovated space at 363 E Broadway, runs 16 courses, though some premium add-ons may be available.
Though there's nothing quite like Sumibiyaki Arashi in Vancouver, its heart and soul couldn't be more apropos for the ethos of the city. Here, the whole bird is respected, with each progressive course, whether it be a cup of piping hot broth or a skewer right off the grill, featuring one or more cut of chicken.
Nearly all 16 courses kissed by flames from the charcoal grill
After a palate awakening opener of grill-kissed fish, the chicken-centric story begins. There's a familiar and juicy piece of breast, a morsel of thigh. The hatsu (chicken heart) is beautifully tender. A small cup of soup was made with bones and chicken feet for a rich, deep, nourishing chicken flavour.
There are echoes of the sushi omakase experience here, like when Chef Ho or one of his team members places the course, whether it be plated or just the skewer, on the counter before you, offering a brief description of what awaits. The presentation is restrained but not unremarkable; even the expertly folded pieces of chicken on their slender rods indicate expertise.
A few revelatory bites included the crispy-skinned wing with a squeeze of bright lemon, the delicate chawanmushi with dashi and crab that melts on your tongue, and my two optional add-on courses of chicken liver and artery. The former was hands-down the best iteration of the offal I've ever had and the latter the only, but both rich and supple, imbued with the essence of the grill.
The final savoury course was the only "carb" of the night: A rice bowl topped with ground chicken that had been tossed in a mesh basket atop the charcoal grill and paired with preserved egg yolk.
Each piece honoured the whole chicken
Every selection of chicken tasted, of course, like chicken, but no two pieces tasted alike. All had the spirit of charcoal and the core chicken flavour, but nothing felt similar. Each item on the grill received its own painted swipe of, for lack of a better term, moisture -- pots of sesame oil or chicken fat, for example, next to the grill.
To the right of the grill, a container of Ho's tare, a special dipping sauce or glaze in which select skewers receive a ceremonial dunking to enhance the flavour. This tare is made using a base provided by Ho's yakitori chef-master; he meticulously divided his stash and is storing it, building on the master stock for his grill-side supply as one might care for a sourdough starter through the years.
Other fun courses of the non-chicken variety included the square of marinated and grilled tofu and the grilled hard-boiled quail's eggs - another first to have the eggs prepared skewered and grilled. The "steak-and-eggs" inspired course was tender shreds of beef atop a boiled (chicken) egg.
Between bites, refreshing nibbles of mild, firm house-made pickles or shaved daikon (accompanied by seasonings administered by your own hand: house sweet soy, a togarashi-style spice, or a taste-bud tingling green seasoning).
Dessert was a simple round of grilled sweet potato and a fresh strawberry. No need for anything more, as this was for me my 18th course and I was once again ready to swear off eating ever again. (Spoiler alert: I did not keep my pledge.)
Limited seats available: How to book dinner at Sumibiyaki Arashi
The restaurant team helped maintain the atmosphere of relaxed elegance with attentive and knowledgeable service. Any question was handily answered, and beverages were expertly guided. I had a glass of skin contact white (a 2022 Thorn & Burrow Riesling) as my sole sipper of the evening, a nice pairing for the meal. They even dipped into chef's personal stash to make a Japanese soda for my dining companion.
The meal ends nearly as quietly as it began. The coals are out, and Chef Ho and his crew are wiping down, readying for the second seating. Everyone is flush with fullness and, in some cases, wine or sake. The meal feels ritualistic and meaningful, on top of being well-executed and delicious.
Ho shared that while Sumibiyaki Arashi does have additional seats on the far wall, he plans to keep reservations limited to the bar, which seats 14, to maintain the intimacy of the meal. Currently, the omakase yakitori experience is priced at $160 per person, and reservations for the month ahead are released on the first of the prior month.
While it could be frustrating to have to plan out your booking in that manner, if you're looking for a positive and fitting spin, it's really the first intentional act of what is a very intentional meal. It all simply makes sense.
Video: Vancouver's ultimate omakase yakitori experience at Sumibiyaki Arashi
@forkingawesomevia At this new Vancouver restaurant your seat is at the counter as you watch your 16-course omakase meal prepared on a charcoal grill. At Sumibiyaki Arashi, Chef Pete Ho is a yakitori (chicken skewer) master. This upscale, interactive, and intimate dinner experience is unlike anything else you’ll find right now in Vancouver. From juicy grilled chicken pieces glazed with various sauces, including the special tare passed to the chef from his mentor and master chef, to each special in-between course like chicken broth, chawanmushi, or “steak and egg,” this is a special place. #forkingawesome #vancouverbc #yakitori #japanesefood ♬ The Groove Architect - SrChillEasier
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