Gastown is on a roll — its resurgence fueled further by the arrival of Tacofino. This already vibrant spot, which started out as a much loved food truck in Tofino, is in the old Pig & Whistle space.
While the more compact Burrito Bar takeout counter is at 15 Cordova St., expansive Tacofino, with its lounge and bar (think serious Mezcal and tequilas) is right off Blood Alley. Come warm weather, the entrance will double as a patio. The slightly less gritty laneway now has a plethora of choice, including Salt, Gringo and Shirakawa.
However, right now it’s Tacofino that’s getting all the glory, and with good reason. The concept is cool, the tastes are great and the prices right. In short, Tacofino delivers quality, creativity and affordability — a diner’s dream.
Co-founders Jason Sussman and Kaeli Robinson forged their idea after they bought an old catering truck and headed for the wilds of Tofino, where they combined their passion for surfing with a definitive nod to the fish tacos they’d discovered in Baja.
Now, with additional partners, the Gastown locale continues in the tradition of Tacofino’s original brick and mortar establishment in Hastings Sunrise — with plenty of attention to hormone-free ingredients, ethically raised and locally made.
Top tastes (among many) from my visit ranged from a well-conceived spicy Kabocha squash and cauliflower tostada with pickled cauliflower and queso fresca ($6) to lamb Birria perked up with preserved lemon zest, chili, pickled nopales and herb salad ($7) and a substantial glazed beef rib with chilaquiles, lemon grass, habanero, kale and peanuts ($17).
The space itself effortlessly marries its heritage brick façade with airy lanterns and plant mobiles around informal seating with plenty of booths and stools, and light-box features of vintage Tofino scenes.
I can’t wait to go back.
Amici arrives
Newly landed in the West End, Amici Miei Cucina Italiana on Denman Street is a simply furnished but charming room that offers some very good authentic flavours. Owners Manrico and Marcella, who hail direct from Abruzzo, focus on regional fare, with most pasta made fresh daily and a menu driven by family recipes.
Offerings are smartly divided into small “tapas” plates — more generous than most — and pasta dishes arranged by sauce style, red white and rosé. First tastes yielded deliciously addictive molten Crocchette di Patate (potato rolls filled with molten Mozzarella and ham, $12), tender Calamari al Pomodoro in an intensely flavourful tomato sauce with fresh pesto ($12) and a superb rigatoni alla salsiccia, with spicy sausage and mushrooms ($18).
Drinks are reasonable and wines (such as Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Tollo Colle Secco Rubino) well priced at $8 glass, $36 bottle, plus Prosecco by the glass. Also offered, through February, is a generous opening food discount of 50 per cent off lunch and 30 per cent off dinner, meaning there’s even more reason — beyond the piping hot, tasty plates — to go meet these delightful newcomers in their friendly surroundings.
Tuscan spring
Speaking of all things Italian: Umberto Menghi says his Tuscan tuned Giardino Restaurant (1328 Hornby St.) will be up and running this spring, exact date to be confirmed. Umberto says he can’t wait to open the doors to guests old and new. We know a lot of people who’ll drink to that.
Belly’s Best
• Racine Minervois 2012 (Languedoc)
Another great example of what’s up in “D”Oc: mainly Grenache with 20 per cent Syrah yields spice and plummy notes before a juicy, well-rounded palate. BCLS $18.99. Think cassoulet, grilled herbed sausage or anything meaty, red and barbecued. 90 pts.
