Most of us wear clothes but very rarely stop to think about the process the garment went through to ensure it fits. That is unless you’re someone who struggles to find clothing that fits.
Size inclusivity is an issue the fashion industry continues to struggle with, especially small businesses, and some companies that claim to offer extended sizing still don’t cover the range needed, according to advocates.
A Vancouver-based lingerie business is working to expand its own size range while simultaneously shining a light on the process of creating inclusive clothing.
“Making clothes is a very empirical process, you have to use your hands and put them on people and adjust. You can't really rely on your imagination,” says Understance owner Jiayi Lyu. “That's kind of the reason that we need models to help us develop products.”
Lyu doesn't consider Understance to be fully size-inclusive...yet.
Having started in 2021 and opening its first brick-and-mortar boutique last year, Understance began with a size range that initially went up to a 40DD but after getting people in the store that they couldn’t fit, they introduced G cups in early 2022 and are working to introduce new products in sizes up to a 48K.
However, Lyu says she won't consider the business fully size-inclusive until they offer products up to a size O which she says is the goal.
The only problem is, they haven't been able to find fit models to help them with product development at these expanded sizes.
The importance of a standard size (and why bra shopping can 'kind of suck')
In the lingerie industry, there's something called a standard size which brands need to decide on when creating a new bra.
A standard size is the first bra that the brand manufactures and most companies will take that bra seriously and fit it to at least one model, adjusting it until it’s perfect. But Lyu says that some brands skimp on testing the rest of the sizes and rely on “grading rules” which she explains is like taking a picture and dragging it by the corner to make it larger.
Grading up can create fit issues because a lot of ratios change in "strange, unpredictable ways" when you sit, she says. “One of the reasons that bra shopping tends to kind of suck is a lot of brands do skip a lot of the processes in the middle.”
The standard size is different across the industry depending on the brand’s niche but for the most part, large companies chose a 32 to 38 band size and a double A to D cup. She estimates that Victoria’s Secret’s standard size is a 34 to 36 B while fuller bust specialists might select a 36 G.
“If we want to make something very firm, lifting, and rigid, we will usually pick a larger size comparatively in the size range that we offer,” says Lyu. “And if we want to be relaxed, soft, gentle, and something that's not very supportive necessarily, but will be very comfortable, we'll pick a smaller size. So it's not necessarily always in the middle.”
For their two latest bras – Anya and Penny – the standard size is 38J and they have been through three rounds of testing with fit models in that size.
Understance puts out open calls for fit models who are asked to test out a sample of the bra in multiple rounds and even take it home to try it for two weeks, and then report back comfort issues.
“We encourage bra abuse,” Jyu says, laughing. Models are asked to machine wash and tumble dry the bra – really put it through its paces.
It's a very tedious and detail-oriented process, according to Jyu, but she says there’s no way to cut corners. Still, they're struggling to find models in the 30 to 48 band and I to K cup range.
The challenges of being size-inclusive
Between open Instagram call-outs, asking customers who come into the store, and friends and family, Understance has exhausted its existing resources looking for fit models. If they can't find the people, they can't develop the product.
“We are putting a lot of trust into the process and our belief is if you build the right product, if you build the products that work, and if you offer decent service, and a competitive price range if you do all those things right, they will come,” says Lyu. “I think the customer needs to have some trust in the process as well.”
In-store, Understance takes down people’s measurements and keeps an archive. There's an online algorithm that will use the information to match people to their correct size in each product but Lyu says that’s only 40 per cent effective.
“I think the advice usually here is just going to a boutique, get fitted, try on a bunch of things. But that's not very helpful advice when you're not within close driving distance to a store that carries your size,” she says.
Lyu believes that people should absolutely be able to make decisions about their bodies in the comfort of their own home but in order for people to find things that work for them it will require a little effort on their side as well. She thinks it’s unlikely that the first bra someone orders will be a perfect fit and suggests that if you’re shopping online you should have a measuring tape and be prepared to do at least one return or exchange.
"I think another challenging thing for us is we want our customers to have that same faith that it's going to work and is going to be transformative once it works.”
That said, Understance also offers a virtual fitting option via Zoom, where experts check fit and make recommendations based on shape, and a style quiz that goes into detail about breast shape and suggests matches.
Anyone interested in being a fit model should contact Understance. Their Vancouver store is located at 1024 Robson St.
